Archive for Pescadero

William Steele Moves His Cows: Story by Coastside Artist Galen Wolf

William Steele Moves His Cows by Galen Wolf

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Long before daybreak, the cows of William Steele were milked that memorable morning, at Steele’s barn on the shore of Tomales Bay, by milkers under weak lantern light. This was the day that William Steele’s option on thousands of acres of land, running from the Gazos Creek to Santa Cruz County line, took effect and he was to move his herd south to his new land. He intended to move his dairy, and he chose the daring route of the area. The milking that afternoon was to be done before the sun set, a hundred sea miles from where he had milked the cows that morning. This late milking had to be done because you can’t shut down a cow just because of a move.

That morning, Wiliam Steele had a large barge tied to the short wharf at Millerton on Tomales Bay. He had engaged a wheezy steam tug to pull it. The route would follow the narrow bay, pass through the far narrower channel and then into the open sea. Even today, modern boats avoid the dangerous channel. Once in the open ocean, his tow faced the grim Point Reyes, the windiest promontory in America. Beyond the peril lay Duxburg Reef, noted for shipwrecks, and then the turbulent Potato Patch at the mouth of the Golden Gate.

Steele had set up high and heavy railings and stanchions for anchoring the animals on the barge, to keep them from being rolled into the unsteady waves.

A few flocks of awakening bay ducks were scattered by the tumult of shouting men and bawling cows as the loading began. Cows are hardly cooperative and this occasion was no exception as the loud voices of men and animals rang out in a great hullabaloo to distrub the dawn.

Cowhandling, however, was the forte of the Steele hands. The trip began with the first light, which saw the tug wheezing into the channel with the tow obediently swinging astern.

Meanwhile, on the faraway ranch, plans had been completed to house to new seaborne guests. Barns had been built, pad-stalls and stanchions stood ready, milk houses waited and great stacks of hay perfumed the air.

But now Steele’s problems began to unfold. A few days before the move, the Tomales workers informed him that they would not leave their beloved Maria. They agreed to load the cows for Steele and then….no more. Milkers were hard to come by. The nearby townspeople had cows of their own and they could not help.

Finally, in desperation, in the grey dawn of that day, a foreman came in from San Francisco with a gang of Chinese men. Few of them had ever seen a cow, let alone milked one. In haste, they had their schooling. They secured a few nearby animals and milking was demonstrated to a ring of serious nodding heads. They picked up the idea quickly. Smiling, nodding, “Plenty savee. Can do.”

Tomales Bay was now behind the barge and the bar made its challenge. It was full tide now and serenly the convoy swept out to open sea. It was a fair day, but ocean is ocean and the cattle stood in seasick misery as the sun glinted whitely on the windswept waves of Point Reyes.

Hours passed with the whistling wind and spray on the wet decks. The old tug had been honestly built. The barge followed closely behind the tug. As they passed Duxburg, all were reminded of the fatal wrecks on that notorious reef, as they watched the breaking reef.

Then came the plunge and tumult of the Potato Patch’s cross seas, and finally the even rollers of the coast south of the Gate. Soon Pigeon Point appeared. The sun was low. They were ready for landing the distressed cargo at last.

Chalky patches on Rattlesnake Mountain marked the Gazos Creek as they neared the shore. The cove below Norman Steele’s home had been reconnoitered. Since there were no rocks, it was a fairly safe landing cove. The little tug crept in towards the shore. It had caught up the barge in brackets and pushed it hard toward the sandy cove. The deeply laden barge grounded a hundred feet from shore, but its heavy load could not be taken any closer to the beach.

The cows were wildly excited as little rollers sloshed along the barge’s sides. A gangway was lowered and the first cows were forced down it. The water was back-deep for the animals and splashed along their sides. The men on board were just as excited with success so near. The rush and crash of the small surf, the smell of land and hay, and the return of miling time all had the cows in a state of wild confusion.

The cows began leaping from the low barge amid the screams of the gulls, shouts of the men and barking of dogs. They streamed ashore, wild-eyed and shaking seawater from their faces.

The Steele boys were born to handle cattle. It must have felt like home to the cows, as they buried their muzzles in their feeding boxes. As they were being milked on new land, even the fingers of Chinese recruits did not seem too strange.

And thus William Steele came to San Mateo County. Other neighbors arrived as dramatically and in many different ways. These years were of high enterprise and a man’s worth was measurable.

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….Pescadero Folk….

The pine tree in this photo tells me that the folks are standing near the Lone Pine Inn, which was formerly the site of the famous Swanton House. In the background I see a building that might have been Stryker’s. Photo courtesy Tony Pera.

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The Coburn Mystery: Meet Two of the Main Characters

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(Pescadero’s litigious Loren Coburn testifying in court.)

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(Sarah Coburn, Loren’s second wife and the sister of his first wife. Sarah was murdered in Pescadero in 1919.)

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….Pigeon Point Lighthouse….

The wreck of the Hellespoint fed fuel to a growing movement seeking government funds for construction of a lighthouse along this notorious stretch of shoreline…but when they first chose to buy Ano Nuevo, and finding the asking price too high, the government settled on nearby Pigeon Point.

Workers completed the 100-foot tower built on solid rock in 1872. Besides featuring a revolving lens made in France (which originally wound up like a grandfather clock), the elegant lighthouse used 500,000 bricks and iron work in its construvction.

Captain J.W. Patterson, “an old salt,” and who arrived aboard the ship ‘Mentor’ in 1823, was put in charge of the new tower.

Despite the presence of a lighthouse at Pigeon Point (and hopes expressed for another at Pillar Point), the steamer ‘Columbia’ found herself stranded there in 1897. Local residents reportedly rushed to the scene where they stripped the staterooms of white and gold moulding which they used for picture frames.

Others removed copper wire and many observed that nearly every house in the vicinity was equipped with a copper wire clothesline. The tons of white lead discovered aboard the ‘Columbia’ was used to give homes in Pescadero a fresh coat of white paint. One man earned so much money on the wreck that he bought himself a new home in Spanishtown (later called Half Moon Bay.)

And some say that although the tower at Pigeon Point still lights the way for those who sail by, the rocky shoreline holds an uncertain fate for the unlucky few who lose their way.

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Notrocks….from Invisible Beach

(Photo by John Vonderlin)

To reach more of John and to catch up with his definitions and the names he has given the South Coast beaches, click here

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Invisible Beach’s 3 Claims To Fame/#2 Driftwood (2)

Story by John Vonderlin ——-many of John’s terms are described here

Flotsam in the nearshore takes that path in our area because it is driven by the longshore current (littoral drift)–which in turn is driven by the prevailing northwest winds. I believed once they floated in, they were trapped and were subsequently rounded off by rubbing against the rough grit of the sand, just as in a rock tumbler.

I believed this effect, which should exist in almost any promontory-bounded cove, was strengthened by the topographical features of the shallow, flat reef that extended almost continuously along the length of the beach out to about fifty yards.

The reef’s rocks were composed of numerous sedimentary layers turned on edge with the differential erosion of the layers of varying hardness causing a series of parallel grooves and ridges. The ridges and grooves because of their southwest to northwest orientation would tend to guide any flotsam retreating from the beach directly into the prevailing northwestly winds, sending them backwards toward the beach.

I began to photograph easy- to- identify pieces of driftwood and noted they did indeed hang around for months. I also noted that occasionally in high surf conditions small quantities of driftwood were escaping past the southern promontory, to be temporarily spread thinly over the beaches to the south; then disappear.

I began to call the small embayment where they were usually concentrated Roach Motel Embayment, after the commercial about the baited box in the commercial that brags, “They check in, but they don’t check out.”

Still, so many of the pieces I was finding were different from the normal driftwood I was used to finding, I knew I wasn’t seeing the full picture. Plus I was perplexed that in all my trips there, I’d never actually seen any pieces float in. One day while collecting some more pebbles I learned…”The Rest of the Story.”
I hadn’t ever seen them floating in because they weren’t. The pieces weren’t floating in because at some point in the oceanic phase of their existence they had become waterlogged and sunk.

As they bumped along the nearshore bottom on their southward trip, from who knows where, they were being ejected onto the beach by a feature I came to call Neptune’s Vomitorium. This feature apparently also provided the path for the ejection of the pebbles and other objects onto the beach.

In a short aside, if you websearch “sinkers lumber,” you’ll find there is a number of thriving businesses that specialize in producing lumber from recovered waterlogged trees, many harvested from virgin forests hundreds of years ago before they sank to the bottom of lakes or rivers.

I further believe that after being ejected on the beach at Neptune’s Vomitorium, they would be moved southward by the waves a short distance down the beach to the Roach Motel Embayment.

At that point the factors I mentioned earlier came into play, more or less restricting them to this stretch of the beach.This also provided the explanation of why these piles of driftwood contained so many unusual shapes and types. Just as with rocks, where the harder a rock is, the better it tends to take a polish, the harder and denser pieces of wood; that is, knot holes, the underside support of branches, forks, heartwood, etc. were durable enough to last long enough to be rounded into attractive shapes. They weren’t doing it on the beach to any degree though. They were doing it during their silent procession along the ocean’s bottom in the nearshore.

With more research I discovered, Neptune’s Vomitorium, was at the site of a paleocreek. During the Ice Age, the ocean level was hundreds of feet lower because of all the water locked in glaciers. Consequently, the coast at that time was far offshore from its present position.

I’ve read that ten thousand years ago that was almost out to the Farallones. The creeks that ran off our local hills and mountains eroded canyons and valleys that have since been submerged by the rising waters that resulted from the melting of the glaciers. The ones that haven’t filled entirely with sediment are called paleocreeks.

For some reason, at Neptune’s Vomitorium, there is an interaction between the longshore current, the paleocreek, and other subsurface topography to episodically, but regularly, regurgitate large amounts of non-buoyant objects onto the beach like no other place I know.

Those objects include the pebbles from the offshore quartz ridge, waterlogged wood, and enormous quantities of non-buoyant marine debris from the fishing and crabbing industry, your lost beach items, and whatever lost or discarded trash that bounces along the bottom of the streams that drain the local watersheds.

In the last three years I’ve collected about ten trash cans full of these little treasure.

I sort them by size and shape for various planned artistic endeavors. Initially, I would drill them and string them by the hundred into what I called “Ocean Garlands,” a beachcombing version of the strings of popcorn we make for decorating our Christmas trees.

Lately, I’ve been using some of the more unusual ones I find in some of my thematic art exhibits. Check out the oval-shaped piece of wood.

Do you recognize what it once was?***

I’ve combined this mysterious piece of driftwood with a golf ball core, the regurgitated remnant left after a poor shot’s long and degrading journey of nearly twenty miles to Invisible Beach, from one of the Ritz Carlton’s, world class golf courses, and a Hole-in-the-Heart Valentine Rockomorph. It is part of the several hundred pieces of art I have assembled for my “The Silent Procession from The Sunken Cathedral to Neptune’s Vomitorium.”

At this time, I want to move on to my next claim: Invisible Beach is the best marine-debris-collection spot on this coast. Enjoy. John Vonderlin

*****For the answer to what the driftwood was….see below

Hi June,
Neither I, or my beachcombing friend who found it, figured out what it was. However, several people recognized it when I showed it to them. It’s the head of a push-broom. The two slanted holes allow you to change the angle of the handle, keeping the bristles from getting too slanted in one direction, limiting it’s effectiveness. Enjoy. John Vonderlin.

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Invisible Beach’s 3 Claims To Fame/#2 Driftwood

Story by John Vonderlin–but his friends call him “Dr. Science.”

Part II

Hi June,

When I first started taking the long hike to Invisible Beach, to see the colorful pebbles, I noticed a nearby area where a number of rafts of small driftwood were gathered. After I had photographed and collected a few handfuls of pebbles, I walked back and checked out the piles of small driftwood strung out in sinuous linear patches by the receding tide’s waves.

I immediately noticed that a good proportion of the small pieces were nicely rounded, many with unusual and pleasing shapes. Already having a large collection of bigger pieces of driftwood at home, I gathered up enough to fill my backpack and headed home.
So it went, every time I visited the beach to gather pebbles, I’d see the driftwood piles in the same embayment and grab a few hundred more.(#1)

I also began to theorize why they were there and what was causing them to be so rounded. They were quite different from the usual piles of small driftwood you might see elsewhere. I began to call this part of the beach, Nature’s Grand Tumbler.

My theory was that the two rock promontories on either end of Invisible Beach, tended to restrict the normal flow of beach-stranded driftwood further southward.

…more…

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1951: “Ma Frey”: Bartendress & Hotel owner’s daughter (4)

Lizzie McCormick, the hotel owner’s daughter married Herman Frey, the town constable and owner of the Elkhorn Saloon. For ten years the happy couple lived at Lobitos*.

During that time the ship ‘Colombia‘ ran aground and broke-up near Pescadero. The villagers rallied and rushed to the scene where they liberated its cargo of white paint. For many years afterward Pescadero was known as “The Spotless Town” because all the houses in town had a fresh coat of the same color paint.

Which brought Ma Frey back to the topic of her vegetable garden and some practical advice.

“The moles have been bad,” she said. “You have to take the corn and dip it in coal oil–that’ll keep the moles away. And you put mothballs where their runs are.

“There’s nearly an acre,” she went on. “Jim, the deputy sheriff, plowed it. You can’t get horses anymore. You either have to spade it or use machinery.”

There were other things on her mind. “I’ve answered a puzzle,” she said, “and I’m gonna get rich. There’s a contest and it doesn’t close ’til the 31st of May–that’s my wedding anniversary. They sent me a form to fill out and I got it all perfect.

“I’ll get $50,000 for the first prize, I think. When I get it, I’m going to do good. I have lots of friends that need operations.”

And that was just like Ma Frey to care about her friends and neighbors in Pescadero.

——————–

*Lobitos: “The farming district hereabouts was so named from the creek around 1870 (in the ’60s the name had been Bald Knob…) The Lobitos Station of the stagecoach line was established in 1878, and within a year or so turned into the present hamlet. (The 1941 Army map very mistakenly calls the place Tunitas, and the USGS, against the advice of its field engineer, has repeated the blunder.)–From “Place Names of San Mateo County” by Dr. Alan K. Brown

**Lobitos Creek: Land grant records of the late 1830s call this the ‘arroyo de los Lobitos’ (Seals creek). Deeds of the early 1850s have an alternate Spanish form: ‘arroyo Lobos Pintos’ (spotted seals; the two terms mean the same thing, seals as distinguished from the large unspotted sea lions). According to Pablo Vasquez, the name comes from the fact that there were large seal rookeries on the shore here. This would be hard to disagree with. A small branch going off the creek a mile and a quarter below Bald Knob has long been regarded as the South fork.–Place Names of San Mateo County, Dr. Alan K. Brown

***Bald Knob: (West of and above Tunitas Creek road 2.4 W of Skyline…) The name has been in use since the late 18550s. There is now a growth of young pines on the summit which before was conspicuously bare. ‘Knob’ is not a regular word for a kind of hill in this part of California, so the effect is semi-metaphorical; Bald mountain has always been an alternate form. In the 1860s Bald Knob was also used as the name of the ranching district down to the west. Wheeler’s San Francisco County map of 1855 has the name Zaremba mountain, for totally unknown reasons.–Place Names of San Mateo County, Dr. Alan K. Brown

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Looking Toward The Famous Flagpole: Pescadero, circa 1980

Photo by Jerry Koontz, jerrysphotos.com

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1951: “Ma Frey”: Bartendress & Hotel owner’s daughter (3)

One of the famous landmarks in Pescadero was (and is) “Lincoln Hill,” on the south side of the town. “I’ve been on it enough,” Ma Frey, who tooled around in a 1935 Ford, said. “When I was a kid, we used to run up to see how fast we could get to the top, and when I was grown-up, I used to have to climb it all the way to get my cow. There was a nasty bull up there and I wouldn’t let the kids go up. I never was afraid of that bull.”

Lizzie Frey was born a McCormick [("It's Mick," she interrupted, "We're no Macs; we're Irish."] north of Pescadero, two or three ranches up Pomponio Creek. When she was a teenager, her father, John McCormick, purchased a hotel in town.

Her dad owned the Pescadero House, Swanton House and two livery stables. Both hotels were famous in the 1890s.

…to be continued…

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