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John Vonderlin Returns to Coburn’s Folly

(Yes, this photo is blurry.)

Return to Coburn’s Folly
Part 3

Story by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

“If you look closely at the photo you can see Lake Lucerne above and behind the carriage on the bridge. You can also see the low dam, equipped with floodgates, that was built by Loren Coburn to create the lake.”


As I noted in the first two parts in this posting about Coburn’s Folly, seemingly all signs of the previous existence of a grand hotel that had been perched above the once nationally famous Pebble Beach, are now gone. But, while the hotel and livery are entirely gone, there still remains a huge memorial to Loren Coburn’s dream to create a seaside resort that would rival the famous Del Monte Hotel at the other Pebble Beach in Monterey. I discovered that while reading your book, “The Coburn Mystery.”

On Page 97, The Pebble Beach Hotel chapter begins:

“Coburn’s “modern caravansary”, the Pebble Beach Hotel, had not opened its doors. Out of spite, Loren vowed he would not open the hotel until the “foolish” Pescaderans came to their senses. Estimated to cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, the empty three-story, hotel, with a wide veranda stretching around it, was dubbed, “The White Elephant” and “Coburn’s Folly”. The villagers sneered that nobody could live in Coburn’s hotel, even if it were opened in the grandest style.

A San Francisco reporter wrote an unflattering portrait of the empty hotel as a home of rats, a place nobody would visit. In the daytime it was eery to walk through the echoing chambers and corridors. Outside the wind howled and the waves crashed. The wind sailing through the top floor sounded ghostly, especially when mixed with the sounds of the bats and owls that lived there.

Numerous windows on the ocean side had been broken by birds flying through them. Some windows had been boarded, but still the wind swept through the hallways stirring up tiny tornadoes of dust.

Loren feared the villagers might seek revenge by destroying the hotel, and he hired a watchman named Patrick Regan to protect the building from being set on fire. Regan who roomed in the stables, patrolled the building at night.

The bad press cast a dark shadow over the big empty hotel. Another story said the hotel was the only building for over a mile, and the beach nearby was bleak; barren rocks lined the shore. The hills to the east were described as wild and desolate. There was nothing inviting about the Pebble Beach Hotel that would compare with the Del Monte.

On the contrary, soothsayers predicted a “sure death” for those brave enough to wade in the ocean in front of the hotel. If not death by drowning, then serious injuries could be sustained from the jagged rocks and the untamed surf that crashed on the sandy shore.

But Loren was resilient. He was proud of the gleaming white Pebble Beach Hotel. The rooms were well-lit and good-sized; there was hot and cold running water. He continued was his plans for a resort. A race track was laid out. A large pavilion was planned. He built a dam across a creek a mile from the hotel so his future guests would have the advantage of sea bathing. When the tide flowed in the floodgates would close, forming beautiful little Lake Lucerne.”

Well how about that? Little Lake Lucerne, a body of water I’ve driven by many times, wishing I could kayak on it, but not willing to violate the “No Trespassing” signs, is apparently the only lasting  memorial to Loren Coburn’s dreams. While the “Spanish Lady” as some called the Influenza Epidemic of 1918 and 19, ended his life, and the building of Highway 1 removed the last vestiges of his grand hotel, the little lake remains much as it was over a century ago.

While I was waiting for some free time to go out and look at and photograph the area with the “new eyes” this knowledge afforded me, I came across an historical photo that showed a carriage passing over the “Bean Hollow Bridge,” sometime in the 1890s or early 1900s.  The photograph is apparently from the Ruth Louise Steele Collection which is archived with the Pescadero Historical Society. I’ll try to see if I can get a clear copy of it rather then this thrice removed version. But to me the new knowledge that it had existed gave me an exciting epiphany, that must be what that odd lot of stumps in the water and marshland between Bean Hollow Road and Highway 1 are.

In Part 4 of this posting I’d like to relate my little adventure and share some pictures I took of these historical remnants. Enjoy. John

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Strange Co-incidence…Story by John Vonderlin

Story/Photo by John Vonderlin
Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)
Hi June,

I haven’t heard back from the brick collector’s website, but I’ve discovered a strange coincidence while researching the possible origin of the brick I photographed in the gravel of Gazos Creek. The first part of the coincidence occurred when I was reading the link I included in the story about Hulda Hoover McLlean and the Rancho Del Oso.

The link’s story recounted how two orphans from Oregon, when they first viewed the Waddell Valley, dreamed of owning a piece of this special place. The older young man, Theodore Hoover, Hulda’s father, eventually became the first Dean of Engineering at Stanford and bought 3,000 acres of the Waddell Valley. His younger brother, Herbert, became the 31st President of the United States.

The second part of the coincidence came to light when while reading Harvey Mowry’s book, “Echoes of the Gazos Creek Country,” hoping to find a possible source for the brick I had photographed, I came across this quote from a letter by Carol Edwards, the oldest daughter of Charles Littlefield. “My brother Reid, I, and our cousin, Bill Grover, dismantled all the firebricks in and around the boiler at the McKinley Mill and hauled them down to Dad’s for the boiler at his mill.”

Then on Page 67, in an aside to a quote by Charles E. Steele, (born in 1891 on the Gazos Ranch) Harvey says, ” The McKinley Mill, whom Charles Jr. refers to, was actually the Templeton-Moore Mill or Pacific Lumber and Mill Company sawmill, built around 1871. Local residents usually called it the McKinley Mill after James McKinley, an older brother of William McKinley. James reopened the old mill in 1882, calling it simply the Gazos Mill.”

William McKinley was our 31st President, first elected in 1896, then re-elected in 1900, only to be assassinated by an anarchist, Leon Czolgosz, and succeeded coincidentally by another Theodore, the first Roosevelt President.

If I’ve got this right, two small, isolated, very sparsely populated coastal valleys, the Waddell Creek and the Gazos Creek watersheds, which touch each other in their higher reaches, have intimate connections to two older brothers of historic families that produced two of America’s Presidential families. Figure the odds on that. Or let me know if I’m wrong.

To add a bit more brick weirdness to go along with Hubert “Limey” Kay and this strange coincidence, I’ve attached a photo of another of my Synthetikites (the eroded, rounded chunk of bricks and mortar) and several very strange bricks I found on an abandoned homestead on a piece of land my friend was renting in the hills above Anderson, southeast of Redding. I have no explanation for their condition, but thought these wonderful “Ugly Ducklings” should be preserved. Enjoy. John

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Rolling Renaissance Catalog. What is it? Sandy Castle/Jim Maggio. Who is he?

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The Coburn Mystery: Chapter 48

On Saturday, September 12, 1891, a Grand Picnic was announced at Pebble Beach , and as many as 50 disgruntled Pescaderans rode in a caravan of private coaches and wagons, their sole intention TO STORM THE GATE.

An effigy of Loren Coburn had been placed on the roof of a Concord Coach pulled by four horses. It was kept in steadily in place by the man sitting in the rear seat.

Following the Concord there were five two-horse buggies, five singles and several one horse wagons, all navigating around the deep ruts in the crooked cow trail—the Pebble Beach Road,

And who was leading the charge? And who was following?

Joe Levy was there. So was Supervisor Henry B. Adair, Roadmaster Charles R. Pinkham* Constable Good and J.C. Williamson.

[Note about Roadmaster Charles Pinkham: In 1885 he worked for a "fast freight" company, the Pescadero & San Mateo Express, making regular trips between San Francisco and Pescadero.]

While Joe Levy and the others moved ever closer to the gate, 61-year-old Sarah Upton, with unkempt brother Marraton beside her, ran into the caravan of coaches. [Note: Sarah later married Loren Coburn.]

In a courtroom she later described what she saw, “…There was a mob….,” she said. She saw the effigy of her then-brother-in-law on top of the big Concord coach but pretended not to see the resemblance between it and Loren Coburn.

Sarah turned to her brother and said, “They are going to break down that gate. I had hardly got the words out of my mouth when they did.”

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John Vonderlin Says: I Hope You See The Falls of Purisima

Story & Photos by John Vonderlin

Email john (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

We made a trip to Invisible Beach a couple of days, ago and found the colorful pebbles covered by a thick layer of sand and virtually no marine debris. However, there were a number of strands of Feather Boa Kelp strung along the beach. Why so many chunks of this particular variety of kelp should show up at this time is just another mystery of this strange beach. For those not familiar with this appropriately named kelp you can familiarize yourself by visiting this website. www.marine.gov/egregia.htm or check this picture out. (sod #019)

While I didn’t find any non-buoyant marine debris to collect, I did see a large piece of driftwood, with a beautiful sinuous form, washed up on the beach. When I commented to Meg how good it would look in her garden, she concurred, but ventured that it was too heavy to carry the half mile back to the car. Did I sense a challenge? After my shaky, doubt-filled expeditionary visit to “The Notch,” I’ve been wanting to recover my mental toughness and confidence. This seemed like a good opportunity. Kneeling down under one of its curves and struggling to my feet, I was amazed how comfortable its smoothness felt on my back and shoulders and how well it balanced itself. It wanted to go home with us.

It took me five portages, but when I finally slid it into my car, where it fit like it belonged, I knew it was meant to be. Here’s a few pictures of my struggles.

More exciting to me is when Meg told me there was a dirt road being constructed across the road from Bob’s produce stand, about five miles south of Half Moon Bay. Knowing that a few days ago the local newspaper had an article saying that work had begun on the Pillar Point and the Cowell/Purisima sections of the Coastal Trail, her interest was piqued. She stopped for some veggies at the stand and inquired. Yes!! The dirt road is part of the construction. Apparently it will lead to the planned parking lot near the impressive coastside Purisima Falls, I wrote about from our trip to “The Secret Beach.”


I am excited that soon anyone will be able to view this previously almost unreachable stretch of our beautiful coast. I’d urge everyone to watch for its opening. A visit to the California Coastal Records Project website to view Pictures 6147-6167 will whet your interest in this soon to be easily viewable stretch. While a part of me regrets its loss of solitude, there are plenty of other stretches I don’t think the Coastal Trail will open up to the general public in my lifetime. Especially, if I keep carrying around big chunks of driftwood. Enjoy. John

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Looking for the Baptist Family

I.
Dear June, I fell upon your website today.  Under “soccer” I found a photo which I believe may include my late father, Ed Blomquist.soccer’
This was the Pescadero soccer team in the 1920’s and one of the donors was M. Baptist.  This is a relative of my grandmother who was on the Portuguese side of my dad’s family.  I have no history on my grandmother other than my dad’s birth certificate from 1907 .
I am wondering if you have any information on the Baptist family of Pescadero.
Thank you so much.
Janice Blomquist Bronson
Email Janice:
II
Hi June, thank you so much for your response.  M. Baptist was, I believe, Manuel Baptist, who was my grandmother’s brother.  I know a lot about the Blomquists, thank goodness, but nothing about my Portuguese side.
Yes, my Dad Edward was Henry’s cousin.  There were actually sets of ‘double cousins’.  My grandmother, Christanza Baptist Blomquist, had a sister named Mariana.  Each one of those sisters married a Blomquist.  Can you believe it?
My father Edward was born in Loma Mar in 1907, the first of four children.  My grandmother died after childbirth on the last one in 1912.   I would very much like to know about her.  I will contact Ron Duarte.   I think he would know of my dad and my mom also who’s family had strong ties in Half Moon Bay.  On my mom’s side her sister, Pet, was married to Ern Digges.  My mom’s brother was Bud Sowle of Montara.
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If you want to read about La Honda, click here

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The Finest Earthworms for Composting Were Raised in San Gregorio

Book by Thomas J. Barrett
“A practical inquiry into soil-building, soil conditioning, and plant nutrition through the action of earthworms, with instructions for intensive propagation and use of Domesticated Earthworms in biological soil-building.

Ever wonder what an earthworm is made of? For a larger image, click on the photo!

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John Vonderlin Says: Hulda Hoover McLean was an amazing woman.

Story by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,
I’ve attached a scan of the newsletter from a 2003 Rancho Del Oso Interpretive Center. Hulda was an amazing woman. I know she has passed on, but am not sure if she made 100. Her correspondence (5 linear feet) is at Stanford and is on my list to check out after I can read again easily. I’m sure she has the full story on the Waddell Beach Bypass. Just the 1905 picture alone tells me there is no way the poison-oak-protected road I explored was the old road, as it is about straight up the cliff from the horse and carriage. Her story is fascinating: www.stanfordalumni.org/news/magazine/1997/janfeb/articles/hulda.html
Enjoy. John

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Levy Brothers Built a Small Empire of General Stores (8)

All work for this story was done at the San Mateo County History Museum in Redwood City.

Levy Brothers Built a Small Empire of General Stores: Part 8, Finis

Adrien’s leanings toward real estate probably prompted the brothers to accumulate 3,000 acres near Pomponio Creek in the early 1900s. In the meantime, they also attempted to revive whaling south of Pescadero at Pigeon Point–plus a crew of two dozen men worked at their sawmill on Butano Creek.

As a mechanical cream separator revolutionized the dairy industry, the Levys invested in creameries and cheese factories. One factory, with 600 cows, stood at Pigeon Point [this sounds like it was part of the ranch that belonged to Loren Coburn]; another was located north of the old Peterson and Alsford Store in San Gregorio [which now belongs to the Cattermoles.] The third stood on the site once used by a water-powered grist mill on Pilarcitos Creek in Half Moon Bay.

About the same time, the Levys signed the lease for a much larger store–as big as three buildings– on Purissima Street in Half Moon Bay.

Although the Levys loved the small town atmosphere of the Coastside, they actively explored outside investments. By the early 1900s, most businessmen looked to the peninsula. Plans for the extension of an electric trolley car service from San Francisco to San Mateo tantalized potential investors.

As homes filled newly subdivided land, the population rapidly increased. The Levy brothers concluded that a move to the bay side held greater promise for their future.

By 1902, when the brothers had already opened their mercantile in San Mateo, newspapers continued to run ads for their chains of stores at Half Moon Bay, San Gregorio and Pescadero.

———–

AfterNote: The Levy brothers opened stores on the peninsula and moved there as well. All the stores on the Coastside were closed; the land at Pomponio Creek sold. After decades of success on the peninsula, the store’s owners looked to fresh opportunites in Half Moon Bay, returning there in 1972. But things didn’t work out as expected; the store was closed in the 1980s or 90s.

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1924: Comings and Goings

From the Redwood City Tribune

Feb. 4, 1924: “Dr. T. K. Miller of this place [Pescadero] is reported to have rented Mrs. Roy Johnson’s home, formerly the Yellow Moon Tearoom in Half Moon Bay, with a view of locating his practice in the coastside town to the north. Dr. Miller came to Pescadero from Lathrop a year ago. Since that time he has been identified with the Pescadero community, the Boy Scouts and the Odd Fellows. Mrs. Miller has purchased the books of the circulated library in HMB conducted by Mrs. Johnson.”

Jan. 25, 1924: Phillip Hoffman, recently discharged from the United States army, has established himself here as a cabinetmaker and general mechanic….Claude Scott was in town from the Gazos mills Tuesday. He reports great progress being made to get the lumbering operation under way.

Jan. 11, 1924: Paul Smith editor of the High School Carnelian has returned from a Christmas stay with his mother in Oakland…H. Phillips, proprietor of the New Pescadero Inn, made a surprise business trip to the city Tuesday…A. E. Rease, proprietor of the Emporium , the Mainn street garage here, is suffering from a serous attack of lumbago…

more coming

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