Pescadero Memories

Hi June,    This is from the June 27th, 1897 issue of “The Call.”  While I’ve never previously heard of the pup-killing behavior  being displayed by some of the bulls, as described by the author of this article, it reminds me of a documentary about elephants I once saw. Because of ivory poachers all the large bull elephants had been killed in the area the documentary was about. Young male elephants were engaging in gang “wilding” assaults, attacking and injuring or killing other elephants and endangered rhinos. The problem was solved by importing adult bull elephants, who quickly settled things down. I wonder if the hidehunters he mentions concentrated on the largest bulls too? I wonder what Bernie LeBoeuf, the Ano Nuevo Marine Mammal expert, would say about this article? Amphibians? Enjoy. John   THE SEAL ROOKERIES OFF THE COAST OF SAN MATEO COUNTY    The   seals   of   Ano   Nuevo   Island   are   prac –  tically   unknown   to   both   scientists   and   the public,   notwithstanding   the   fact   that   the herds   there   are   the   largest   on   the   Pacific Coast   and   the   habits   of   the   species   are the   most   distinctive. In   many   ways   their   habits   are   somewhat similar   to   those   of   sea   birds.   Once   a   year the   rocks,   or   rookeries,   are   covered   with seals.   Young   are   born   and   raised   there, and   then   a   general   migration   takes   place of   all   but   the   old   females.   For   months the   rookeries   are   comparatively   deserted. The   seals   come   and   go   at   regular   intervals. If   you   will   look   at   a   map   of   California, and   closely   examine   the   southwestern portion   of   the   coast   of   San   Mateo   County, you   will   find   Ano   Nuevo   Island.   Although only   about   thirty-five   miles   from   San Francisco,   in   a   direct   line,   it   is   a   most difficult   place   to   get   at.   If   everything goes   well   it   can   be   reached   in   about   twelve hours,   but   should   there   be   a   detention   of any   kind   the   journey   may   consume   two days.   The   nearest   town   is   Pescadeio, fourteen   miles   to   the   north. Ano   Nuevo   Island   is   cut   off   from   the mainland   by   a   channel   about   a   mile   wide, and   the   only   way   to   cross   is   in   the   boat   of the   keepers   of   the   Government   fog   signal. The   seal   rocks   are   scattered   to   the   north –  ward   of   the   island,   the   closest   being   only about   500   feet   away. It   was   for   the   purpose   of   ascertaining something   about   the   habits   of   these   seals and   obtaining   pictures   of   them   that   a Call   representative   visited   Ano   Nuevo Island   last   week,   just   in   the   height   of   the breeding   season.   Keeper   Butwell   of   the fog   signal,   whose   opportunities   for   study –  ing   seals   have   undoubtedly   been   most favorable,   gladly   furnished   all   informa –  tion   and   acted   as   guide   to   the   seal   rocks. Some   of   the   facts   that   be   has   gathered   in regard   to   the   habits   of   seals   and   the causes   of   their   extermination   are   surpris –  ing   and   valuable.   He   has   watched   the herds   constantly   at   all   seasons   for   a period   of   eight   years,   and   the   location   of the   rocks,   lying   as   they   do   so   close   to   the island,   makes   the   seals’   actions   as   easily observable   as   if   they   were   on   the   stage   of a   theater. “Years   ago,”   said   Mr.   Butwell,   “there used   to   be   tens   of   thousands   of   seals   on these   rocks,   and   the   killing   of   them   was   a profitable   industry.   The   hides   were   used lor   belting   and   sold   for   a   good   price. ”In   those   days   the   rocks   were   leased   to hunters,   and   the   killing   went   on   at   a rapid   rate.   Of   course   the   seals   rapidly diminished   in   numbers,   as   males,   females and   pups   were   killed   indiscriminately. When   I   came   bere   eight   years   ago   all   this had   stopped.   No   hunters   were   allowed   on the   rocks,   and   it   would   seem   as   if   the herds   should   have   again   multiplied;   but they   didn’t.   For   four   years   they   kept   get –  ting   fewer,   until   there   were   hardly   500 left. “About   this   time   I   began   to   study   the cause   of   the   decrease.   From   this   point here   on   the   island   I   can   look   across   to   the rocks,   and   by   taking   a   glass   can   bring the   seals   up   very   close.   I   had   previously noticed   that   some   of   the   bulls   had   a   habit of   killing   the   young,   but   had   no   idea   the evil   was   so   general   as   I   found   it   to   be   on investigation.   One   morning   I   saw   a   cer –  tain   bull   climb   on   the   rocks   and   kill about   half   a   dozen   pups.   Others   did   the same,   so   it   was   soon   apparent   to   me   that the   bulls   were   largely   responsible   for   the decrease   of   the   herds. “After   becoming   convinced   that   a   num –  ber   of   vicious   bulls   did   all   the   mischief,   I began   a   systematic   killing   of   them.   I used   to   go   over   on   the   rocks   and   lie   in wait.   Whenever   I   caught   an   old   fellow in   the   act   of   killing   a   pup   I   put   a   bullet through   his   head.   The   first   season   I killed   about   fifty   and   saved   many   hun –  dred   pups,   so   that   the   second   year   the herds   began   to   increase   and   this   year   are larger   than   they   have   been   since   I   com –  menced   my   extermination   of   the   vicious bulls.   The   habits   of   these   seals   are   most peculiar   and   mysterious.   After   the   pups are   born   on   the   rocks   the   cows   spend   two or   three   months   teaching   them   to   swim, and   then   when   the   time   comes   take   them to   sea   somewhere   and   leave   them.   The young   seals   do   not   return   to   the   place   of their   birth   until   they   are   two   years   old, but   where   they   spend   the   interval   is   a mystery.   So   you   see   it   took   two   years   to tell   whether   the   killing   of   the   vicious bulls   did   any   good   or   not.   But   l am   sat –  isfied   that   it   did.   At   any   rate   the   seals are   increasing   at   a   fair   rate,   and   in   a   lew years,   with   proper   nursing,   I   think   they will   be   as   numerous   as   ever. “But   really   when   we   look   at   it   in   the right   way   there   is   no   reason   why   the   seals should   be   preserved.   It   is   purely   a   mat –  ter   of   sentiment.   One   full-grown   seal   will destroy   enough   fish   in   a   week   to   feed   a good-sized   town   for   a   month,   and   the damage   done   by   the   herd   is   beyond   con –  ception.   Seals   are   really   the   coyotes   of the   sea,   and   if   we   look   after   our   own   in –  terests   we   wou!d   be   making   efforts   to   de –  stroy   them   instead   of   preserving   them. However,   it   is   not   likely   they   will   be   de –  stroyed,   as   they   have   ceased   to   be   worth anything   comercially. “The   largest   bull   on   the   rocks   would   not yield   enough   hide,   whiskers,   etc.,   to   sell for   $1.50.   When   seal   hides   were   used   tor belting   they   were   worth   about  $5   each, but   since   rubber   has   been   used   for   this purpose   they   are   no   longer   wanted.   Seal hide   is   only   used   now   for   making   buffing wheels,   and   of   course   the   demand   is   very light.   Really   the   seals   are   not   worth   kill –  ing   should   one   be   so   inclined,   and   any   at –  tempt   to   do   so   as   a   matter   of   business would   surely   result   in   loss.” Every   statement   made   by   Mr.   Butwell was   borne   out   by   observation.   Standing on   the   northern   edge   of   Ano   Nuevo Island   the   seals’   methods   of   destroying fish   could   be   readily   seen.   The   tide sweeps   rather   swiftly   through   the   chan –  nel   between   the   two   points,   and   naturally a   school   of   fish   would   be   carried   along with   it.   The   rookeries   will   be   thickly covered   with   seals,   but   the   instant   a   cer –  tain   foamy   streak   appeared   on   the   surface of   the   water   there   will   be   an   almost   in –  stantaneous   plunge   into   the   sea.   Then the   slaughter   commences. The   surface   of   the   water   is   churned   into foam   and   the   frightened   fish   dart   in   all directions   only   to   run   into   more   seals. The   amphibians   bump   into   one   another, roar   and   plunge   after   their   prey.   All   is tumult,   commotion   and   death   to   the   fish. For   a   few   minutes   the   seals   undoubtedly satisfy   their   appetites   by   eating   all   the fish   they   catch,   but   after   that   they   simply kill   for   fun.   When   a   seal   is   hungry   he will   swallow   a   fish   whole   and   be   chasing another   while   his   victim   is   still   in   his throat.   But   when   his   hunger   grows   less ravenous   he   simply   bites   out   the   back   and throws   the   rest   away.   When   he   has   had all   he   wants   the   sea!   playfully   rolls   over the   surface   of   the   waves,   catches   a   fish and   gives   it   a   crunch.   Of   course   death   is instantaneous   and   the   body   of   the   fish   is allowed   to   drop   into   the   sea.   Providing the   air   bladders   of   the   fish   have   not   been broken   the   body   will   float,   and   often   the surface   of   the   water   will   be   literally   cov –  ered   with   large   saimon,   sea   bass   and trout—enough   to   feed   a   town.   Ot   course many   more   fish   sink   from   sight,   so   that the   destruction   is  simply   appalling. The   fact   that   the   bulls   kill   the   young seals   would   appear   to   be   simply   another demonstration   of   a   certain   admitted   fact of   natural   history.   How   such   things come   about   is   of   course   a   mystery,   but there   are   numerous   instances   ot   the   same kind.   It   would   seem   as   if   nature   had   con –  cluded   that   it   was   time   for   a   certain species   to   become   extinct   and   took   this means   of   accomplishing   her   end.   That she   would   always   succeed   goes   without saving—except   where   civilization   ateps   in and   puts   a   slop   to   it. The   most   common   demonstration   of this   is   the   case   of   the   ordinary   barnyard fowl.   It   is   a   well-known   fact   that   where there   are   as   many   cocks   as   hens   chicks cannot   be   raised.   The   cocks   kill   them, and   if   they   were   unmolested   the   species would   soon   become   extinct.   But   civiliza –  tion   steps   in   and   destroys   certain   of   the cocks.   Ad   a   consequence   we   have   all   the chickens   we   want. Regardless   of   the   destructive   propensi –  ties   of   the   seals   and   a   number   of   bis   objec –  tionable   traits,   he   is   the   most   picturesque creature   that   lives   in   the   sea,   and,   it might   be   added,   the   most   picturesque   that lives   on   land.   Like   every   other   living creature,   the   seal   has   good   traits   as   well as   bad   traits,   and   is   most   interesting   to watch.   While   it   is   a   most   difficult   matter to   reach   the   seal   rookeries,   the   experience is   well   worth   the   trip.   It   is   replete   with incident,   although   not   what   would   be called   dangerous. At   low   tide   it   is   possible   to   walk   from Ano   Nuevo   Island   to   the   seal   rocks.   But not   “with   a   dry   foot,”   as   the   sailors   are wont   to   say. Just   at   present   the   rookeries   are   in   their glory.   The   pups   have   all   been   born   and some   of   them   are   over   a   month   old.   At the   time   of   The   Call   representative’s visit   to   the   rocks   Mr.   Butwell   had   just mads   up   his   mind   to   dispose   of   a   few vicious   bulls   he   bad   seen   killing   ‘the young,   and   he   led   the   way   from   the   island to   the   rookeries. Climbing   down   the   northern   cliff   of   the island   the   way   lay   over   moss-covered rocks   laid   bare   by   the   low   tide.   Walking is   difficult   work,   as   the   rocks,   beautiful   as it   looks,   affords   a   poor   foothold.   In   fact it   affords   no   foothold   at   all,   and   it   is   only by   the   greatest   care   that   slipping   is   pre –  vented.   Between   the   rocks   are   pools   of clear   water,   several   inches   deep,   that must   be   waded   through   and   care   exercised to   prevent   being   tangled   in   the   long,  slimy tendrils   of   seaweed.   .  Just   before   the   seal   rock   is   reached   sea  there   is   a   channel about   two   feet   deep   and   twenty   feet   wide   that   must   be   waded.  The   seals   show   little   signs   of   fear,  a few   have   plunged   from   the   cliff,   but   others   look   at   the   intruders with   curiosity   a   few   moments   and   then   seem   to   forget.   Seen   from   across   the   narrow   channel,   the   herd   of   seals   lining   the   edge   of   the   cliffs   was   as   grand    a   sight   as   the   world   affords.   There   were   thousands   and   thousands  of   the   enormous   creatures,   packed   in   together   like   a   flock   of   birds. In   fact,   the   general   effect   of   the   herd   was   that   of   penguins.   All   the   seals   roar   vio –  lently,   so   that   it   is   impossible   to   hear   the human   voice.   What   monsters   they   are, and   what   power   they   possess   of   which they   are   unconscious. Just   before   wading   the   channel   Mr. Butwell,   discharged   his   rifle.   It   was   the first   time   the   seals   had   heard   the   sound this   year,   and   in   an   instant   there   was consternation.   Hundreds   of   tons   of   flesh dropped   into   the   sea   in   a   moment,   and the   waves   rose   to   the   top   of   the   cliff,   while the   spray   dashed   high   into   the   air.   It was   several   moments   before   the   water became   quiet   again,   and   then   the   herd was   seen   swimming   in   a   bunch,   undecided what   to   do,   and   roaring   with   all   their might.   Although   the   sea   was   fairly   black with   seals,   hundreds   remained   on   the   top of   the   cliffs.   These   were   the   old   cows, who   in   some   way   seemed   to   realize   that they   were   in   no   danger. On   the   opposite   side   of   the   channel, which   was   waded   with   difficulty   and   at the   expense   of   getting   wet   to   the   waist, there   was   a   large   number   of   pups   floun –  dering   helplessly   over   the   moss-covered rocks.   Nurnbers of   them   were   half-hidden in   tiny   caves   at   the   base   of   the   cliff,   but came   out   intending   to   make   friends. They   did   not   show   the   slightest   fear,   but on   the   contrary   seemed   to   want   to   be petted.   Ttiey   allowed   themselves   to   be patted   on   their   backs,   and   in   other   ways showed   pleasure   at   receiving   attention. A   young   seal   is   one   of   the   most   pathet –  ic-looking   creatures   that   live.   Its   ex –  pression   is   much   like   that   of   a   lamb,   and it   will   look   at   you   out   of   its   large   gray eyes   as   if   it   really   has   feeling.   The   little fellows   will   follow   one   around   the   rock uttering   bleats   like   a   goat.   In   color   these pups   are   a   light   gray,   with   black   on   the ends   of   the   flippers. The   seals   of   Ano   Nuevo   Island,   while belonging   to   the   same   genus   as   those   on the   Farallones   and   at   the   Cliff,   are   a   dis –  tinct   species.   They   are   very   light   in color.   Some   of   the   cows   are   the   color   of manilla   wrapping-paper   and   the   darkest of   the   bulls   are   a   sort   of   ocher.   They   are almost   the   size   of   a   walrus,   a   few   of   them being   caprble   of   raising   tbeir   heads   about six   feet   above   the   rock,   while   still   keep –  ing   their   flippers   on   it.   Many   of   them will   measure   eleven   feet   in   length,   when stretched   out,   and   weigh   at   least   a   ton and   a   half.   It   is   all   that   four   men   can   do to   roll   a   dead   bull   over   a   level   and   smooth place.   To   roll   it   up   hill   for   even   a   few feet   is   out   of   the   question. The   cliffs   around   the   seal   rookeries   are about   twenty   feet   high   at   low   tide   and somewhat   difficult   of   ascent.   The   rocks are   greasy,   from   the   seals   climbing   over them,   and   afford   a   poor   foothold,   as   well as   being   almost   perpendicular.   The   top, however,   is   in   the   form   of   a   series   of   ter –  races   or   steps.   Each   of   these   is   about two   feet   high,   and   the   space   between them   is   absolutely   flat   at   the   eastern   wall, although   the   whole   rock   tips   to   the   west.    As   soon   as   the   top   of   the   rock   became visible   the   work   of   the   bull   seals   was   only too   apparent.   Dead   pups   were   scattered on   all   sides   and   lame   ones   were   strug –  gling   around,   crying   piteously.   The   old cows   paid   little   attention   and   showed   no signs   of   fear.   Their   pups   crawled   close   to them,   but   the   old   ones   seemed   to   know that   they   were   absolutely   safe   and   made not   the   least   move   to   protect   them. After   waiting   quietly   behind   a   project –  ing   ledge   of   rock   and   allowing   most   of the   seals   to   crawl   back   on   to   the   top   of the   cliff   an   old   bull   was   seen   at   the   south side   of   the   island,   bellowing   fiercely. “That’s   one   of   the   fellows   I   am   after,” said   Mr.   Butwsll.   “Now   watch   him. I   have   seen   him   kill   a   dozen   young   ones and   disable   several   of   the   young   females.” Watching   his   chance,   the   monster floated   on   the   top   of   a   wave,   and   then made   a   leap   that   landed   him   on   the rock,   which   be   struck   so   hard   as   to   shake it.   Rushing   at   a   group   of   cows,   he pushed   them   over   the   cliff   into   the   water. Then   he   made   a   charge   into   a   number   of pups   that   were   sleeping   peacefully   in   the sunshine.   He   simply   dropped   on   two or   three   of   the   helpless   creatures   and crushed   the   lives   out   of   them.’   Then   he seized   those   within   his   reach   and   began tossing   them   in   all   directions.   Some were   thrown   at   least   twenty   feet   into   the air, and falling on the rocks were crushed to death. Others were thrown into the sea and drowned, while a few were thrown with only enough force to break their ribs, so they would wallow around helplessly to eventually die in agony.    At this stage of the game Mr. Butwell raised his rifle  and put a bullet behind the brute’s ear. With a thud it fell to the rock, but although a 45 caliber bullet with ninety grains of powder behind it had been fired into its head, the bull was not dead. It quivered and flopped, and then a number of cows rushed up and attacked it fiercely. They were chased off with stones.    It   is   remarkable   the   amount   of   vitality there   is   in   a   seal.   Five   bullets   had   to   be fired   into   the   head   of   the   one   mentioned before   it   finally   lay   still.   Of   course   if   a single   bullet   had   really   reached   to   the brain,   it   would   have   died   instantly,   but this   is   an   almost   impossible   thing   to   do, as   the   bullets,   in   some   instances,   simply fracture   the   skull   instead   of   going through   it. When   the   bull   was   dead   at   last,   the   cows on   the   rock,   although   only   eight   or   ten feet   away,   allowed   it   to   be   examined   with –  out   showing   any   signs   of   disturbance.   If anything,   the   death   of   the   bull   caused them   pleasure. The   mother   seals,   however,   are   not always   mild.   If   they   in   any   way   come   to think   that   their   young   are   in   danger   they will   fight   fiercely,   and   if   it   becomes   ne –  cessary   to   wound   one   of   them   she   will   not leave   the   cliff   unless   her   pup   is   where   she can   reach   it.   The   cows   are   the   best   of mothers,   and   when   their   pups   are   very young   will   not   leave   them   for   a   moment. Generally   it   is   possible   to   drive   off   a cow   seal   by   throwing   stones   at   her. Should   one   be   struck   in   the   face   she   will show   signs   of   fear   and   in   most   instances retreat.   Should   she   refuse   to   do   this   it   is necessary   to   get   out   of   her   way;   but   even this   course   Is   dangerous,   as   the   rocks   are slippery,   and   should   a   man   fall   and   the seal   spring   on  him   his   life   would   be crushed   out   instantly. It   is   a   remarkable   fact   that   no   scientific men   have   ever   made   a   study   of   the   seals of   Ano   Nuevo   Island.   The   fog   signal   log –  book   shows   that   none   have   ever   been there,   and   the   only   reason   that   can   be given   is   that   it   is   not   generally   known that   any   seals   ever   come   to   the   island.