….Pigeon Point Lighthouse….

The wreck of the Hellespoint fed fuel to a growing movement seeking government funds for construction of a lighthouse along this notorious stretch of shoreline…but when they first chose to buy Ano Nuevo, and finding the asking price too high, the government settled on nearby Pigeon Point.

Workers completed the 100-foot tower built on solid rock in 1872. Besides featuring a revolving lens made in France (which originally wound up like a grandfather clock), the elegant lighthouse used 500,000 bricks and iron work in its construvction.

Captain J.W. Patterson, “an old salt,” and who arrived aboard the ship ‘Mentor’ in 1823, was put in charge of the new tower.

Despite the presence of a lighthouse at Pigeon Point (and hopes expressed for another at Pillar Point), the steamer ‘Columbia’ found herself stranded there in 1897. Local residents reportedly rushed to the scene where they stripped the staterooms of white and gold moulding which they used for picture frames.

Others removed copper wire and many observed that nearly every house in the vicinity was equipped with a copper wire clothesline. The tons of white lead discovered aboard the ‘Columbia’ was used to give homes in Pescadero a fresh coat of white paint. One man earned so much money on the wreck that he bought himself a new home in Spanishtown (later called Half Moon Bay.)

And some say that although the tower at Pigeon Point still lights the way for those who sail by, the rocky shoreline holds an uncertain fate for the unlucky few who lose their way.

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More Pigeon Point:…The Hellespont Horror

[Note: I wrote this in 1977.]

The voyage was not a smooth one as Frederick Wilson steered the American ship, Hellespont, along the rocky California coast in November of 1868. Not only dark weather but ruthless winds and a boiling sea blinded the way in the early morning hours.

Captain Cornelius Soule (well known in San Francisco for his fast passages on the “Panama” from New York), believed the Hellepont to be 20 miles out at sea. When the captain suddenly saw the breakers ahead, he kept a cool head issuing commands to “Wear ship“–meaning to change the course away from the wind.

Yet instead of tacking out to sea, the Hellespont easily glided in among the ruthless breakers. The first time she struck heavily, crashing against the black reefs. The second time the waves swung the Hellespont around wildly, striking her broadside.

Captain Soule emerged from the cabin holding an axe and ordered the crew to cut away the masts which they did. As the masts fell overboard, they smashed the lifeboats to pieces. Without warning, a huge breaker struck, this time splitting the Hellespont in half. The tremendous impact ripped apart the main deck and carried it away to sea.

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Galen Wolf Watercolor of the Pebble Beach Hotel….aka “Coburn’s Folly”

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(Galen Wolf watercolor of Loren Coburn’s Folly, also known as the Pebble Beach Hotel, south of Pescadero.)

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More Story of Pigeon Point: The Coya, The Forget-Me-Not…

[Note: I wrote this in 1977.]

In 1867 tragedy struck again…this time the British bark, Coya, carrying a cargo of coal from Newcastle rammed a reef near Franklin Point. The Coya, whose 27 passengers included three women, turned over and sank.

As W. I. Carpenter observed the Prussian barkentine, Forget-Me-Not, fire her signal guns off Pigeon Point, he rode all night to inform port authorities in San Francisco of the vessel’s distress. On this occasion, the tugs Rescue and Goliah arrived in time to assist the ailing ship into port. Besides praise for his heroic deed, Mr. Carpenter received a handsome reward.

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…More Story of Pigeon Point…Sir John Franklin

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[Note: I wrote this in 1977.]

While searching for San Francisco in 1865, the American clipper, Sir John Franklin, lost her way in a dense fog and mountainous sea. When the weather cleared some 24 hours later, the captain viewed the breakers ahead with great alarm….but it was already too late.

The Sir John Franklin screeched loudly as she struck the dark reefs. A crew member shouted “Abandon ship!” when he discovered the huge hole in the hull. The cargo, including pianos and dry goods and liquor, followed them, swept away by the powerful current.

The captain, first mate and 11 others struggled to swim in the heavy surf but the die was cast as all met a watery death on that fateful day.

Witnesses, local residents who witnessed the horrific shipwreck, called it the most disastrous to date. In memory of those who lost their lives in the insurmountable seas, the place where the Sir John Franklin struck (midway between Ano Nuevo and Pigeon Point) was christened Franklin Point.

Photo: San Mateo County History Museum. Please visit the museum at the historic Redwood City Courthouse. The History Museum is my favorite charity.

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…The Story of Pigeon Point: The Carrier Pigeon

[Note: I wrote this in 1977]

When the ship Carrier Pigeon vanished into a thick blanket of fog somewhere near Point Ano Nuevo in 1853, Captain Azariah Doane desperately sought to determine his bearings.

Captain Doane little realized then that a strong current was swiftly luring the Carrier Pigeon north toward some six miles of dangerous, rocky shoreline….and despite the captain and his crew’s outward confidence, they probably concealed a shared eerie premonition on this, their maiden voyage from Boston to San Francisco.

They should have paid attention to their inner dialogue because while they thought they were far out at sea–the ship with a figurehead resembling a finely carved gilded pigeon–steadily sailed toward the rugged coastline…closer, closer, closer….

And seconds later, the Carrier Pigeon lurched wildly and the crew reeled forward as the vessel crashed into the claw shaped rocks. Fifteen minutes later, a rush of salt water streamed into the hold, 7 feet high. Half-an-hour later, tremendous waves smashed over the lower deck. The captain and her crew drowned. By dusk, the Carrier Pigeon lay fatally wounded, stranded on a rocky ledge, her bow pointed 500 feet from shore.

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Pigeon Point: Shipwrecks, Scalawags and Scavengers

“Shipwrecks, Scalawags and Scavengers” by JoAnn Semones. Haven’t read it yet, but I’m going to! Available at the bookstores in Half Moon Bay. Click here to choose your local bookstore.

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1873: A Trip to Pigeon Point With “Novice”…

[Note: I wrote this in 1992; the photo appeared with the article.]

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[Photo: The Keeper of the Lighthouse and his family and an assistant resided in this comfortable home at Pigeon Point light station built before the turn of the century. The sum of $12,000 was appropriated for the structure.]

“Novice” was the pen name of a restless South Coastside woman who joked in 1873 that “she would rather spend a whole week driving and sightseeing than in the wash-tub.”

(By driving, she meant via horse and carriage.)

When heavy winter storms kept the San Gregorio writer housebound, she couldn’t wait to get back on the road. And the moment there was a break in the weather, “Novice” was ready for an adventure on the South Coast–an adventure that would end up as a story she would mail for publication in the San Mateo County newspaper.

I’m ready, she said, looking at the gloomy gray sky “to drink any amount of salt air and stray bits of scenery.”

She invited friends to accompany her on the bumpy carriage ride, and the party arrived in Pescadero at 9 a.m.–but they didn’t remain long in the popular seaside resort. After a “vote,” she and her friends decided “to do” the Pigeon Point Lighthouse. A month earlier the new lighthouse had celebrated its first anniversary.

Surely when Novice and her pals arrived at the new landmark, they knew the back story; they had heard the gossip about the nasty legal battle over the nearby busy wharf (the only wharf for miles.)
Here are the juicy details: For a decade, Loren Coburn, the controversial landowner and world-class litigant, had leased the wharf to several ex-San Mateo County officials. They then modernized the primitive facilities making it possible for small steamers to load and unload local produce and supplies in a few hours instead of the usual two days.

Well, the lease had expired and now that the former county officials had made the improvements, they didn’t want to give up the property. They refused to honor the contract and the legal dispute landed in the courts.

In the meantime, there had been unfriendly confrontations and threats of violence. (For more details, read my “Coburn Mystery.”

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…Friends of the Calamari…Just Wear Them…

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1970s Friends of the Calamari (Photo: Paul Schraub)

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New to Me….Davenport & WWII….

Thank you John Vonderlin ([email protected]) for emailing this…

From: Coast Dairies Property: A Land Use History, click here

“The Davenport cement plant (it became Pacific Cement and Aggregates in 1956, Lonestar Cement Corporation in 1965 and RMC Pacific Materials in 1988), brought immediate military attention to the North Coast following the attack on Pearl Harbor in December 1941. Believing that Japan might attack the U.S. mainland, the military quickly posted guards and lookouts around Davenport and imposed stringent blackout requirements on its residents.

“Later in December, when the ship Agiworld was attacked by a Japanese submarine off Cypress Point south of Monterey, security along the coast was heightened. A Japanese submarine was also sighted off the coast a few miles north of Davenport, resulting in a brief skirmish between the submarine and a single plane from the Army Air Corps.

“Eventually a segment of the all-black 54th Coast Artillery was stationed at Davenport and regular night canine patrols were instituted at all the area beaches. In addition, four shore mounted guns were placed strategically around the Cement Plant. Two 75mm guns were mounted overlooking the pier and two 155mm Howitzers were mounted just to the east of Newtown. Many of the young people living in the area at the time became airplane spotters, spending long hours in the lookout stations posted along the coastal hills.

“Perhaps the most disruptive part of the early months of the war was the removal of many Italians from the coast, along with all persons of Japanese ancestry.

“Beginning in February of 1942, all Italian aliens living inland from Highway 1 south of Laguna Creek were required to move inland from the highway, and since many of the Italian families living on the North Coast had elderly unnaturalized parents and grandparents, the military orders brought extreme hardships to the farmers between Laguna Creek and the city limits of Santa Cruz. For the few families of Japanese present since the 1920s, the removal from the North Coast to a concentration camp in Arizona was devastating. Very few of the Japanese returned to the North Coast after the war.”

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