Pescadero Memories

Thanks to Mike Merritt, Butano State Park Seasonal Interpreter, for emailing the breathtaking park’s early history.

Email Mike (butano@lycos.com)

Butano Area History

Early Pioneer Settlement

Following the Gold Rush, large numbers of Americans began arriving in California. In 1850, California became a state, and thousands of acres of rancho property began to be turned over to American citizens. As a result there was in the coming years a wholesale turnover of rancho lands to American interests, including the ranchos of the coast. Many of the large ranchos were purchased by wealthy European Americans. In 1851, Isaac Graham of Santa Cruz acquired the Rancho Punta de Ano Nuevo from the Castro heirs, encompassing all of what would become Butano SP. Graham had been an American trapper on the frontier, and was a prominent pioneer. For a time, he had been imprisoned in Mexico for alleged acts of insurrection. His release included an indemnity, with which he purchased the Rancho.(Steele, Catharine B. The Steeles of Point Ano Nuevo,). Although he did not live on the rancho, he leased much of the land out for cattle ranching. Because of financial troubles, Graham was unable to hold onto the property, and it was sold at public auction in 1862 to John H. Baird, for $20,000. Baird quickly sold the property to Loren Coburn for $30,000. Coburn purchased both the Rancho Butano and Rancho Punta de Ano with his brother-in-law Jeremiah Clark. After buying out Clark, Coburn leased much of the land to a northern California family dairy enterprise by the name of Steele.

Dairies

The Steeles had arrived in California from Ohio beginning in the mid-1850’s, operating several dairies in Sonoma County. They soon began to make cheese, which was eagerly awaited in San Francisco. By 1857, George, Isaac, Edgar, and Rensselaer Steele leased land in Marin County. Demand for their cheese caused the Steeles to expand their herd and seek out new country. Beginning in 1862, the Steeles leased 17,763 acres of the Ano Nuevo rancho from Coburn. The lease was for $6,000 per year for ten years plus all taxes on the rancho. A stipulation allowed for the Steeles to buy 7,000 acres of the ranch south of Gazos Creek when the lease expired, at $6 per acre. The Steeles exercised the option to buy the 7,000 acres, while Coburn retained the northern portion of the rancho (Steele 1948:10). Edgar Steele built the Cloverdale Dairy, which used to stand along present day Cloverdale Rd.

Lumbering

Meanwhile, lumbering had also become a prominent economic activity in this region. As settlements south of San Francisco grew, the redwood trees prevalent in the Santa Cruz Mountains were exploited for their commercial use. While the eastern slopes up to the summit were harvested beginning in the 1850’s, the coast side areas were further from shipping points, markets, and transportation facilities, making logging operations difficult. By the 1870’s, the accessible timber on the eastern slope had been largely harvested. Logging then focused on the coast side watersheds of the Purissima, Tunitas, San Gregorio, Pescadero, and Gazos creeks. Most local creeks dried up in the summer, requiring steam powered-mills for effective logging operations. Small shingle mills were often set up in small, remote canyons where oxen teams could not reach. Transporting the lumber to market proved extremely difficult, and expensive. With no deep water port on the nearby coast, shipping the lumber from the few small wharfs (Waddell’s Gordon’s Chute at Tunitas, Pigeon Point) was generally not cost effective. Prices of lumber also varied widely, based upon changing demand as the result of fires or other disasters. These price fluctuations frequently put small operations out of business (Hynding 1982). Nevertheless, several mills were established on the coast side of the mountains beginning in 1867, and some businesses thrived for a time.

The focus of most early lumbering in the area appears to have been along Gazos Creek. The Birch and Steen shingle mill was located approximately ½ mile west of the confluence of Bear Creek and Gazos Creek, and about five miles from the ocean. It was eventually sold to Horace Templeton who moved the mill upstream, began milling lumber, and organized the Pacific Lumber and Mill Company. Lumber was floated down a flume to the intersection of Cloverdale Road and Gazos Creek Road where it was hauled to Pigeon Point for shipping. Despite a promising beginning, the mill closed following the death of Templeton in 1873. The nationwide Panic of 1873 put several other mills in the Santa Cruz Mountains out of business. It would be several years before business would begin to pick up again. In 1882, James McKinley (brother of the future president) reactivated the Pacific Lumber mill, and soon was supplying the increasingly powerful and expanding Southern Pacific Railroad. The mill was renamed the “McKinley Mill” (Stanger 1967). Business continued to ebb and flow based upon the larger national, regional, and local economies.

During this period, the lands that would make up Butano SP were owned by logging companies, and were extensively logged. Several mills were built on Gazos Creek, as well as other locations (such as on Big Butano and Little Butano creeks).
Pescadero

Read the rest of this entry »

Story by Mike Merritt, Butano State Park Seasonal Interpreter

Email Mike (butano@lycos.com)

Butano Overview History

Peninsula Farms

Several parcels of land north of Gazos Creek, including Little Butano Flats, were developed into a farming cooperative known as Peninsula Farms in 1923. The property was subdivided into 41 parcels, many of which were further subdivided in later years. A manager of the cooperative built what is now the lower park residence (Residence #1), as well as the flume on Little Butano Creek.

In the 1920’s, the Goat Hill property was purchased by Peter Olmo. Olmo operated a dog kennel, as well as a small turkey farm on the property. At roughly the same period, Joe Bacciocco purchased the Jackson property, along with the house built by Peninsula Farms. Bacciocco, a wealthy San Franciscan meat wholesaler, did not live at the house, but instead used it as a weekend retreat. Bacciocco hosted parties that became infamous during the period of Prohibition.

He hired local resident, Hans Carlson, to serve as a caretaker for the property from 1936 to 1952. Land speculators initiated the purchase of much of the Bacciocco property, surveying 40 home sites. Many of these home sites were in the location of what would later become the present campground. The drastic decline of the stock market in 1929 sealed the fate of the land speculator, and no development occurred in the Butano area. Bacciocco retained ownership of the land.

As described above, this region soon became a rich lumber resource. Several lumber companies acquired vast tracts of land in what is now Butano SP. Land encompassing the watershed of the Little Butano Creek was owned by those individuals described above, as well as extensive holdings by the Pacific Lumber Company.

Early Preservation Efforts

Conservation groups had been lobbying to preserve California’s coastal redwoods beginning in the 1880’s. This movement had its earliest and brightest victory in the creation of Big Basin State Park in 1902. By 1921, the preservation group Sempervirens Club set their sight upon land along Big Butano Creek, containing some of the best remaining stands of old growth redwoods in the state.

In 1928, a statewide park survey called for the addition of 12,000 acres to Big Basin State Park (encompassing Big Butano Creek). Though timber prices declined over the next few years (and thereby the value of the land), funds were not available for the purchase. As they had in the past, timber prices skyrocketed, and logging activity was renewed in the early 1930’s. In 1932, the Save-the-Redwoods League commissioned a study for the potential for a park in the Little Butano Creek area though no land purchases were made.

By World War II, the Pacific Lumber Company had purchased a great deal of the property in the area surrounding the valley of Little Butano Creek. Meanwhile, in 1941, San Mateo County planned to purchase 160 acres in what was referred to as the Butano tract (along Big Butano Creek). The county planned to develop the area for recreation with the assistance of the Civilian Conservation Corps, CCC. This plan did not come to pass, likely as a result of the war.

Post World War II

Landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead, Jr.,

under contract with the state, surveyed the Little Butano area in 1946, recommending that a park not be considered for this region. Olmsted instead urged the acquisition of land in the Big Butano area. This area was favored by most conservationists, while the Little Butano was not. Conservationists had, by this time, placed emphasis not only on saving the old growth redwoods, but also providing easy access to them from the large metropolitan areas of the San Francisco Bay area.

Conservation efforts, however, were helped by the fact that Butano remained a rugged and relatively inaccessible area, making development difficult. The decline of lumber prices following the end of the war also assisted in the conservation efforts.(DPR 1974:

Efforts were again made to purchase the Butano beginning in the late 1940’s. Many private groups (perhaps foremost among them the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club) sought the establishment of a state park in the area. The State Park Commission was apparently convinced, and planned to acquire 4,500 acres encompassing Big and Little Butano valleys. The commission set aside funds to purchase sections of the land on a matching basis.

San Mateo County agreed to donate their tract of land in the area known as the San Mateo County Memorial Park (Zimmerman 1948). In 1954, the state appraised 1,040 acres in the Big Butano area at $800,000. The owner (presumably the Pacific Lumber Company), however, would not sell for less than $1,600,000. The State Park Commission prepared to initiate condemnation proceedings. Lacking the support of local counties (San Mateo, San Francisco, and Santa Clara), the commission began looking at alternate areas, including the Little Butano area. (Sierra Club Bulletin 1955 January: 19).

The Butano Forest Associates was formed to assist the state in acquiring and preserving 5,000 acres of the Big and Little Butano watersheds. In 1951, the organization agreed to donate $5,000 in exchange for having a 40-acre redwood grove named for their organization. Apparently, the Division of Beaches and Parks agreed, and accepted the money. The first acquisition was made in 1956, consisting of 320 acres of government land. Soon thereafter it was designated “The Butano.”

Olmo’s property, including the family residence, was deeded to the state on March 31, 1958. By 1959, the state had acquired a total of 1,900 acres. Much of the land had already been logged extensively, and those trees remaining were primarily second growth. The park was not open to the public until many years later, when facilities were completed. In 1961, Benjamin Reis, Park Supervisor of the newly formed Butano SP was killed in an accident at the park. Soon thereafter, the campground was named in his honor.

A request for $336,489 was made in the 1962/63 budget for the first phase in the development of a 90-unit campsite in the new park. The first campground included only 40 units, however, together with a graded dirt road, water system and a single comfort station. Plans were made for many more campgrounds, along with improved roads, trails, comfort stations, combination buildings, and electricity. The road through the park to the campground was completed in 1964 (with a bridge over the creek constructed that year). Over head power lines were finally installed in 1967. By 1980, the park contained 2,186 acres.

Email Mike Merritt (butano@lycos.com)

June,

Hi, Mike Merritt here.

I thought, with all the talk about tunnels and such, I would throw in a few things I’ve come across in my history “digging”.

Last summer I talked with Gregg Timms of the Pescadero Historical Society, and he asked me if I had found any caves up near Butano State Park where I work. I replied no. Up till then I had never heard of any rumors of caves in the mountains, certainly not ones that you could climb into. I have read about the renegade Native American, Pomponio, hiding out in a “cave” in what is now called Pomponio creek.

Then, yesterday at the Redwood City Library, I came across this in the 1887 issue of the San Mateo Times & Gazette:

“Perhaps there are only a few inhabitants of this place who know of the existence of a cave on the upper Butano Creek. Such is the fact, however. It has been explored to the depth of a hundred feet or more, and stalactite formation of various odd shapes, makes it worth a while to pay a visit…”

Wow, how cool is it that there’s a deep cave right in our backyard?

I know of caves up at Castle Rock but not this close to the coast. Obviously we don’t want to be combing the forest for the cave, as the upper Butano is private property, not to mention very large. However, if anyone has information about this geologic gem us nature geeks would love to know hear about it. Most likely it has been forgotten and is safely hidden deep within the redwood forest.

And the fun doesn’t stop there. Another article brings us to Bean Hollow.

On May 23, 1891, the reporter for the San Mateo Times and Gazette wrote this:

“J. C. Williamson, on Monday last shipped for C. Sweet the first installment of gold from the Bean Hollow Mine. The amount was five and a half ounces worth sexteen dollers per ounce, obtained from amalgram by retort [not sure what this means?]. Mr. Sweet has constructed a windmill by which he is enabled to use this limited supply of water continually, pumping it thereby back to the reservoir. The mine is black sand and the supply abundant.”

Could it be true we had our own gold mine here in Pescadero?

I do not know much about C. Sweet, and this is the first I have heard of a mine of any sorts in the area. Who knows more?

Well that’s all for now. I am getting ready to post some profiles of the early homesteaders of the Little Butano Canyon. They date back to the early 1860’s with each family bringing a wealth of colorful local history.

May the Forest Be With You
Mike Merritt
Butano State Park Seasonal Interpreter

Email Mike (butano@lycos.com)

Mike Merritt(MM): I do have a question about you latest posting of the Coburn Mystery. In chapter 44 you mention the how Coburn ran “the Butano Dairy with 100 milk cows and 50 head of cattle. There was a house, barn, butter and cheese factory to look after.” Do you know much more about this dairy and it’s location?

June: As I continue posting the story from the original manuscript, I may find more information on the Butano (Cloverdale?) Dairy. What you say makes sense–maybe it was called both names, Butano because that was the name of the grant; Cloverdale, because the original owners gave it that name.

Does anyone have more information about the Cloverdale Dairy?

MM: I know that Edgar Steele ran a dairy when the Steele’s first leased Coburn’s land in the early days. It was located along what is now Cloverdale Road halfway between the Little Butano and Gazos canyons. He didn’t work it for very long and not much is left today. It was known, I think, as the Cloverdale Dairy as well. All that remains is a small building half fallen down with no windows with faded yellow paint. There is also a large eucalyptus that was surely planted for shade and many disturbed sites that would have been buildings. The local rancher bulldozed a barn in the 70’s. It could be that your Butano Dairy is different than this Cloverdale Dairy but not sure. I will send a couple photos along.

Mike Merritt is the Butano Park Seasonal Interpreter
Email Mike: (butano@lycos.com)

—————–
Here’s the photos from Mike.
Image: Cloverdale Gulch View
Image: Front of a Cloverdale Dairy Building

[Image: Charlie Lund at Pigeon Point.]

I’ve had the photo above for quite some time. When I first got it, I thought, it’s Pigeon Point, then I thought I’ve never heard of the Beadle Bros: It couldn’t be Pigeon Point!

Then I received the following emails from “Mountain” Mike Merritt, Butano State Park Seasonal Interpreter, and he says:

I just saw the picture of the Beadle Brothers on your website. If you were wondering if it is at Pigeon Point I can tell you that it is. The Beadle Brothers ran a sawmill in the Gazos canyon from 1916 to 1920. They shipped their lumber from Pigeon Point. More info on the subject can be found in Harvey Mowry’s book, Echoes From Gazos Creek.

Enjoy,
Mountain Mike, Butano State Park Seasonal Interpreter

In a follow-up email, where I thanked Mike for solving the mystery of the photo, Mike Merritt told me about updating the history of Butano State Park. Here’s what he wrote:

Glad I could help. I will send along a little write up from Mowry’s book about the Beadle Mill. A few pictures can be found in his book. One is at the Beadle Mill in 1916 with Albert Beadle and the Littlefield’s, whom they were friends with. Another photo is of George Beadle and Mary and Charles Littlefield.

There are also some machinery pictures used at the mill. The picture you have is most likely one of the Beadle brothers, George or Albert. I will bet it is George since Albert died in 1916 at the start of their business venture in the Gazos canyon. You can find the book at most libraries or buy it at the San Mateo County History Museum.

I was excited to see the photo because I am doing research on the Butano State Park history. I work as a seasonal interpreter, and last summer took on the project of updating the park’s history files. Not worked on since the 1970’s, i have managed to organize and add to the info already collected.

This year I’m continuing the project and am looking for new material. I have enjoyed your books and amazing local history knowledge. If you have any more photos and/or information on the Little Butano and Gazos canyons I would love to see it. The two canyons within the park, the Little Butano and Gazos, have some great history and are different from each other. I will be working at the park all summer so feel free to contact me. I would also be interested in obtaining a copy of the Beadle Brothers picture for our records. Let me know.
——————–

Do you have history of The Butano that you’d like to share with “Mountain” Mike Merritt, who is the Butano State Park’s Seasonal Interpreter?

Email Mike: ( butano@lycos.com)

Hello June.

Some of your readers interested in the Ocean Shore R.R. may not know that efforts to resurrect it began almost as soon as it was abandoned. Jack Wagner’s THE LAST WHISTLE is the best reference.

I recall several San Francisco newspaper articles during the 1930s; and as a teenager I got up the nerve to go to the company’s office in downtown S.F. to inquire of its progress, and met the President, George Middleton. The office was shared with a mining company–either Alaska-Juneau Gold Mining or Bunker Hill. I can’t remember and don’t know of any relationship with the new OSRR. Mr. Middleton said the line would re-enter San Francisco by the old, seldom-used Southern Pacific’s Ocean View line. That track was now in the heavily built-up Mission District where people in homes could practically shake hands with the engine crew if a train ever went by. I remember being skeptical that the City would permit it.

Apropos of that time, I have a copy of the December, 1935, issue of “Railroad Stories” magazine and the article “The Ocean Shore Comes Back” by G. H. Kneiss, which told of the expected rebuilding mainly to exploit the timber resources of the Butano Forest

close to the original route, but never reached. There are a number of court cases involving the OSRR from that time on the Internet, mainly dealing with the railroad’s suits for incursions on its former right-of-way, some becoming precedents for other cases.

One of the more interesting is a 1941 appeal re an earlier decision about the injury from falling rocks in June, 1936, to a power shovel operator engaged by the railroad to clear the blocked north portal of the Pedro Point tunnel. A few months earlier the shovel had been “almost completely buried” by a slide at the south portal. I find it almost incredible how the shovel made it to the south portal. This was before Hwy. 1 had been re-routed closer to the coast, and so the shovel had to have taken the long route past Green Canyon and over Devil’s Slide on a roadbed neglected for over fifteen years. What problems the operator encountered can only be imagined. Mr. Wagner’s book chronicled how all these efforts came to naught.

Regards to John Vonderlin. Angelo