Levy Brothers Built a Small Empire of General Stores (4)

Instead of closing down the store in Half Moon Bay, the Levys took alternative action. Joe rode to San Francisco where he kept an appointment with Daniel T. Murphy [of Murphy & Grant, a dry goods dealer]. As young Joe sat in Murphy’s office, he explained the need for an immediate loan or extension of credit.

Otherwise, Joe said, he’d have to write his father in Europe for the money. Until that moment, the brusque Mr. Murphy contemplated throwing Joe out. But when he learned that Joe’s father trusted him, Murphy revealed his big warm heart. From that day on, the Levys easily secured credit with Murphy and Grant.

Once again the Half Moon Bay store prospered. By 1879, the Levys opened another general store in San Gregorio, run at first by Fernand [who was also postmaster]. They chose an excellent location beside a popular saloon on Stage Road [the coast highway between Half Moon Bay and Pescadero). Here the thriving little community supported a schoolhouse,a Chinese washhouse [part of the influx of Chinese who lived in shacks called Chinatown] and those who observed temperance attended meetings at Kineer’s Hall.

[Next: Part 5]

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John Vonderlin and the PurplePeople Talk GeoCache

Below: John Vonderlin’s message to the PurplePeople

PurplePeople,

While doing some onsite exploring and photographing for a story I am writing about Coburn’s Folly, I noticed an odd colored(for that area)rock and discovered the geocache you created. A websearch easily located your geocache and you, so I joined this site to contact you. Reviewing some of your other caches I see you like to do interesting and educational postings about unusual places. Very enjoyable. While I’m not a geocacher, I follow a very similar m.o. in my postings about little known places on the San Mateo Coast. I post on several of June Morrall’s eclectic blogs, especially the PescaderoMemories.com one, as the south coast is my favorite haunt. June wrote, “The Coburn Mystery” and several other books about the San Mateo coast.

We’d like you to post some of your stories. If you are interested in exploring and creating geocaches in some very interesting and/or very difficult to reach spots along the coast you might want to read my stories. Or join us on our expeditions. If there is no issue of trespass or sensitivity to privacy or resource protection my stories give good directions to the spots we explore, often using the pictures at the California Coastal Records Project website.

The PescaderoMemories.com website has grown rather large this last year, so it might be hard to find the stories about the most interesting places in the Archives, but I’d be glad to help if you’re interested. June has an older, larger, blog, HalfMoonBayMemories, that covers the northern San Mateo Coast, that you might also be interested in because of your location. Hope to hear from you. John Vonderlin [email protected]

———————

The PurplePeople message to John Vonderlin

John – good to hear from you.  I have indeed been aware of June’s HMB site, it was part of the inspiration for my Ocean Shore Railroad series of geocaches.  I say my, but ‘PurplePeople’ is really two of us:  myself, Tim Oren (just google) and my wife Pat.  I do the cache design and placement, and we both hunt them.  We currently live in Emerald Hills near Edgewood Park, but lived in HMB for four years, hence our enthusiasm for the Coastside.  We’re both hiking enthusiasts and amateur naturalists, which led us to geocaching.  I’ve also been part of a small group that volunteers to do trail surveying and layout for parks in the area, which is part of what started me into digging through old maps and records.

You’re correct that almost all my caches have a historic or natural history theme, except for a few ‘neighborhood caches’ that are meant to point out obscure local parks and the like to visitors to Emerald Hills.  Nothing against others’ styles of hides, but I like to do something that really distinguishes a spot, rather than being yet another ammo can under a bush.

I didn’t know about June’s Pescadero website, so thanks for that.  (I did know about the Coburn book.)  If nothing else, you’ve answered the question I’ve had for some time about what happened to the Palmer Gulch trestle.  It might a little too far out of the way for a hide, but I’ll make the trek someday and check it out – it would be the perfect culmination for the Ocean Shore cache series.  I’ll go through the website and see if anything else suggests itself.  Beyond private property lines and environmental concerns, another constraint on cache placement is the presence of pre-existing hides; there’s a restriction of at least 1/10 mile between caches.  (One personal limitation that will hopefully end at some time:  I’m still in rehab for a badly broken leg suffered in January, so I’m somewhat limited in exploring uneven terrain until I’m through that process.)

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Levy Brothers Built a Small Empire of General Stores (3)

The hardworking farmers, who accounted for the majority of Levy Brothers’ best customers, suffered most. Those who lived farthest from town paid what they owed once or twice a year when they sold their crops. n the past, these farmers produced at least enough for themselves. But when an unexpected drought joined together with lean times, the farmers were in deep trouble. Many, especially those who rented land, solved the problem by running away.

Levy Brothers, whose policy was to sell on credit, soon experienced the tight money squeeze. And now they carried credit for clients who lacked any visible means of paying until times improved.

(Next: Part 4)

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Rock Stacking on the South Coast

Photo by John Vonderlin

Email John ([email protected])

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Levy Brothers Built a Small Empire of General Stores (2)

[All research for this 1977 story was done at the <em>San Mateo County History Museum</em>, Redwood City.]

From the moment the Levys opened the doors of their new store, the brothers stocked a wide variety of merchandise and groceries intended to “startle the natives.”

Outside, the latest plows and mowing machines rested against the building., while many said that inside a fine assortment of dry goods, clothing, etc., actually spilled out and over the wooden shelves.

One every week either Fernand or Joseph Levy purchased new merchandise in San Francisco. Fernand usually left Half Moon Bay with a team of horses and spring wagon about 2 a.m. to begin the long journey. At the valley now filled with Crystal Springs Lakes, Fernand turned toward San Francisco, where he arrived in time for the early produce market. After visiting all the wholesale houses, Fernand returned to Half Moon Bay with a full wagon load 24 hours later.

Everyone in town confessed an instant fondness for the young Levy brothers. Their employees concurred, often citing Fernand (the older brother’s) fatherly ways and Joe’s funny approach to life.

[Once when a salesman bent down to pick up his sample case, he found that Joseph nailed it to the floor.]

In this friendly atmosphere, the new store prospered, and the pair entertained dreams of expanding the business.

But after the first year, the Levys encountered a crisis serious enough to dampen all their hopes. Without warning, the disastrous financial <em>Panic of 1857</em><em>paralyzed the economy. Suddenly scores of local and nationally known businesses declared bankruptcy.

(Next: Part 3)</em>

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The Levy Brothers Built a Small Empire of General Stores on the Coastside (1)

I wrote this in 1977.

Before help arrived to extinguish the blaze, a mass of flames engulfed Kelly and Mattingly’s General Store in Half Moon Bay. As the fire spread to include M.E. Joyce’s nearby saloon, eyewitnesses predicted certain doom for the town’s leading mercantile.

Volunteers formed bucket brigades and when the fire finally burned itself out, the owners faced the charred remains of a once thriving enterprise.

That day, Charles E. Kelly [described by some as a ‘power’ in local politics] and Richard L. Matingly chose to rebuild an even more impressive structure. But within a year the pair revealed plans to sell out.

Through friends, Ferdinand and Joseph Levy, two young brothers who recently sailed to California from France, learned that the store was for sale. The Levy brothers, anxious to start business in a small town, traveled to Half Moon Bay in 1872. After thoroughly inspecting the premises, they bought Kelly and Mattingly’s business, including their stock of merchandise and a lease on the lower level of the 25-foot-wide building. The newly rebuilt store also housed Wells Fargo Express, the post office and telegraph services [lately installed from San Mateo to Half Moon Bay to Pescadero.]

At the corner of Purissima and Kelly, the popular Levy brothers launched the first of many business ventures on the Coastside.

(Next: Part 2)

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1924: Pescadero During Prohibition

Both stories, below, are from the Redwood City Tribune.

” Pescadero, January 10, 1924: Finding of a small trawler, pounding itself to pieces on the rocks near “Anna Nuevo” Island, off the Pescadero coast, today led to expressions of grave fear for the safety of the crew of the boat. The trawler apparently struck the rocks some time during the past week, and by today had been battered into splinters.

“So far no identification or ownership has been made by those investigating. No trace whatever of the crew of the trawler has been obtained. Conflicting rumors concerning the finding of the boat have spread here, principally involving a supposed fatal trip of rumrunners along the coast, with the probable washing aboard of the crew and cargo, if such things did take place, by the treacherous seas along the coast here. There have been humerous incidents of late, it is stated, revealing that rum runners unfamiliar with the handling of boats have been meeting with diaster in the heavy seas.”

“Pescadero, January 11, 1924. Pescadero’s mystery ship, which has been pounding itself to pieces on the rocks off ‘Anna Nueva’ Island, was today identified as the SS Fremont, rum running vessel which struck the rocks January 4; it was stated this morning. The wreck of the Fremont occurred, it is said, when the pilot of the craft mistook the light on ‘Anna Nueva’ Island for the light on Mile Rock, which is the signal to turn east for entry into the Golden Gate. One life was lost.”

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John Vonderlin asks: Is Pebble Beach Another Ozymandia?

Part I in John Vonderlin’s Coburn’s Follyseries

Over a hundred years of uncontrolled pebble gathering had reduced the resource to the point that I’ve had loads of river gravel delivered  for my driveway that were more interesting–John Vonderlin

Email John ([email protected])




Hi June,

Recently during one of my coastal expeditions, I decided to carefully check out the former site of the Pescadero Hotel
at Pebble Beach, more colorfully known as “Coburn’s Folly.”
I first became aware of the previous existence of this once grand coastside hotel (probably comparable in its time to the present day Ritz Carlton) a couple of years ago when I was reading your book, “The Coburn Mystery.”

I had been directed to your book because of my excitement when I was shown Invisible Beach’s tiny, but amazingly rich with colorful pebbles, gravel bar. This small gravel bar, apparently fed by the same offshore quartz ridge as Pebble Beach, is, in my experience, the best “rockspotting” area on the West Coast.

With much anticipation I visited Pebble Beach State Park, the seeming Motherlode of what I was seeing some distance away at Invisible Beach. Hoping to view what had become of this once famous site, I was disappointed to see “The Curse of the Commons,” had essentially destroyed this once unparalleled resource. While the public, after several trials in the late 1800s, had won one of the first beach-access-over-private-property battles on the West Coast, it had been a Pyrrhic victory. Over a hundred years of uncontrolled pebble gathering had reduced the resource to the point that I’ve had loads of river gravel delivered  for my driveway that were more interesting.

In fact, if you’re not wearing a Ranger’s uniform you can still see the depletion process continuing as numerous tourists ignore the sign prohibiting collection, and gather up the remaining tiny remnants.         That was one of the reasons I subsequently made up the name Invisible Beach, for the gravel bar’s location. Privacy for the nearby landowners was another reason. And of course my own selfishness, in wanting to keep for myself the non-buoyant marine debris episodically regurgitated along with the pebbles at the gravel bar’s location in a phenomena I call Neptune’s Vomitorium, was of paramount importance.

After viewing the disappointment of the depleted beach that once drew people from around the country (from Shasta to Tia Juana as you quoted) to gather the pretty pebbles, I walked north to where the picture in your book seemed to indicate where Coburn’s Folly had been. To say what I found would never inspire an “Ozymandias,” is a gross understatement.

There seemed to be nothing. There was no there, there.

Knowing that over 150,000 board feet of lumber, probably the clear heart old growth redwood that present day environmentally insensitive builders lust for, was salvaged from the hotel, and the remnants later burned in a fire, I hadn’t expected much. But, with Highway 1 blasted through the promontory the hotel had sat upon, I couldn’t even find a chunk of concrete or stone that might have been part of the foundation.

Oh well, with the thought there’s a lot of other San Mateo history to investigate, I put it out of my mind and moved on to other things.

Recently I returned  to investigate the site again. Armed with a little more information, a lot more curiosity, a smidgen more derring-do, and hoping to find something to write about, I did some more serious looking around. Before I move on to the results of my search, I’d like to quote from Wikipedia to give relevance to the “Ozymandias” reference. The poem, “Ozymandias”, was written by the great poet Percey Shelley and reads:

I met a traveller from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them on the sand,
Half sunk, a shatter’d visage lies, whose frown
And wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamp’d on these lifeless things,
The hand that mock’d them and the heart that fed.
And on the pedestal these words appear:
“My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!”
Nothing beside remains: round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,
The lone and level sands stretch far away.[1]
” Without directly stating it, Shelley shows that all works of humankind – including power structures and governments – eventually must pass into history, no matter how permanent they may seem at the apex of their influence. Ozymandias’ short-sighted pride seems amusing at first – until the reader realizes that the lessons conveyed are equally applicable today.”
Even Loren Coburn, the contentious, widely-hated millionaire landowner and businessman, when a million wasn’t the price of a ramshackle fixer on a poorly situated lot in El Granada, seems to have gotten some part of Shelley’s message late in his life, if I read your book correctly. Unfortunately, by then his competency, memory, and relationships with the community were beyond salvaging. Of course in a final bit of irony, the “Spanish Lady,” the microscopic, helpless without a host, pandemic Influenza virus of 1918, taught him a related and final lesson of life, as it ended his. But, while I come neither to bury nor praise Loren Coburn, I do want to peck a few lines about my experiences at the site of this essentially lost, (except for your book) but important icon of the San Mateo coast. Enjoy. John
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Photographer Joel Bratman Takes Us On A SlideShow of The South Coast: San Gregorio-Pigeon Point

The beautiful South Coast from the eyes of photographer Joel Bratman: click here

Joel says: I’ve always wondered, what is the story of the skeletal statue with the rifle in front of that house on Stage Road.

Email Joel:  [email protected]

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1923: Man Dies When Big Trawler Strikes Reef”

From the Redwood City Tribune, October 15, 1923

“When the Iolande, a fishing trawler owned by the A. Baladini Company, ground her keel on the rocks of Pescadero Beach early yesterday morning nine stalwart eamen and fishers plunged overboard and swam for shore. Richard Bird, the engineer, delayed to take a last look at his machinery. Several hours after the others had dragged themselves to safety the body of Bird was washed ashore.

“The Iolande, with smooth seas and calm weather, made a long cruise on Saturday; she was returning with a big catch after draggi ng her net in waters tht are little fished, when she ran into the fog that rolled up rapidly as the wind changed Captain Peter Anderson was in command, and had nine men, including the engineer. He aimed to put in at Half Moon Bay and wait for the weather to clear. As the trawler was feeling her way timidly through the thick blanket of fog there was a sudden jar which threw the crew flat on the decks. Then she careened under a roll of the sea, and realizing they had but little chance on so mall a boat the men threw off their heavy clothing and plunged into the surf…

“The Iolande was a large trawler, 75 feet long and of 53 tons displacement. She was built in San Francisco in 1905. Late yesterday it was said she was breaking up on the rocks.”

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