John Vonderlin: Loma Mar—”Say What?”

Story from John Vonderlin
Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,
After the discovery that the “Leathers and Rags” secret society was formed in Loma Mar; it only seems right that Pescadero should have had its own cabal. Now admittedly, a secret society that has an article about its formation and installation of officers in the newspaper, is obviously employing the risky, “hiding in plain sight” technique. But, it seems to have worked. I say that because I’ve never heard of them, and I’ll bet you never have either. The “Order of Chosen Friends,” might still be out there, underground, planning something, somewhere, maybe soon.
I think this subject needs a hard-hitting expo-”Say What?,” that will reveal just what the heck was going on out there in the deep redwood forest of the isolated Coastside so long ago and what it means to our Homeland’s security today. I’m on it.
But for now, this is what I got: (From the February 24th, 1896 issue of the “San Francisco Call.” Note the stage of their operations is indicated by the fact their officer positions include a warden, a guard and a sentry, but not a munitions expert. I only recognize C.J. Coburn amongst the plotters, but will start dossiers on the others. I do however, like the name “Ocean Gem,” for their chapter, as it ties in nicely with the still-glorious-at-that-time Pebble Beach, as well as their proximity to the ocean. Enjoy. John

Order of Chosen Friends.
Grand Recorder F. C. Wallis, assisted by Grand
Assistant Councilor M. Boehm and Organizer S. C.
Hargreaves, instituted Ocean Gem Council No. 12
at Pescadero last Wednesday evening, with thirty
charter members. The following officers were
elected and installed : Past councilor, C. F Wil
son; councilor, K. Hoskins; vice-councilor, Julia
D. Wilson; instructor, D. E. Briggs: secretary. C.
J. Conurn; treasurer. M. L. Wilson : prelate, Mrs.
I>. K. Brlggs; marshal, Minnie Hoskms; warden,
William Stewart; guard, F. L. Annas; sentry,
Mr-. Annie F. Maxey.

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Pigeon Point: When Whaling Was “King”

[Image below from Colonel Albert Evan's book, "A La California."

PP12

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John Vonderlin: Coast Survey Map/Ano Nuevo Harbor

[Note from June: I have made some errors in the way the last photos are displayed which will be corrected soon.]

Story by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

With your just having posted all those links to the Ano Nuevo General plan, this might be a good time to look at the Coast Survey map of the area from 1854. The Coast Survey, originally the “Survey of the Coast,” started in 1807 by Thomas Jefferson, to map the coast of the United States, and eventually folded into the present day National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration  (N.O.A.A.),  has online Archives of their historic maps going back to the 1700’s at this website:
Coast Survey Partners. Chart Carriage Requirements. Report a Charting Discrepancy The Office of Coast Survey’s Historical Map & Chart Collection contains over

nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/csdl/ctp/ abstract.htm

 
 
   The map of the Ano Nuevo area I’ve attached ScreenShots from is one of the more then 20,000 at this website.  I wanted to share my examinations of this map, which is entitled the “Preliminary Surveys of Harbors on the Western Coast of the United States,”  and its collection number is “352-00-184.” You can can access it by typing either of these in the Seach boxes..
    It was when I started looking at this map fully magnified, that I started to notice some interesting details. First, here’s the progression of screenviews you’ll see as you zero in on this wonderful hundred and fifty year old document.
52215220
5222
 
[Images above: Full map, Map legend, Ano Nuevo Harbor section]
 
    These first two close-ups show San Mateo’s southern coastal gateway, or perhaps gate would have the more accurate connotations given the part they played in Coastside development. This is the famous stretch of steep, unstable bluffs that forced buggies, stages and eventually even automobiles to dash along the beach at low tides to enter or leave the isolated southern Coastside. “The History Dude” of Santa Cruz gives a talk about the Waddell Bluffs, which span this magnified view, that is entitled:
Waddell’s Bluff: How a Big Lump of Santa Cruz Mudstone Changed the History of Our World
52265226B
 
[Images above:  Waddell to Alligator Captioned and Uncaptioned]
 
   On a more mundane level, if you look carefully, you can see the two parallel dotted lines on the beach that the artist/scientist uses to denote the “Coast Road.”  While this dramatic part of the route has been referred to in many books and newspaper articles, they never mention at what point travelers would get on and off the beach from it. I think I now know where, and as usual I was wrong in my initial theorizing.
   The 1864 map doesn’t show exactly where the sand to solid ground point was on the southern end of this often wild and wooly traverse, but it’s easy to figure out. Although it only shows the dotted lines crossing Waddell Creek close to the ocean and then disappearing because of the edge of the map, by looking at the modern coast on California Coastal Records project
(Pictures #6403, 6404) you can see there is a convenient slope to get off the beach about a hundred yards south of the creek. If that route isn’t taken, the slope off the beach gets progressively steeper and higher and much less likely to have been the way. 
  Of course exactly where they would transition from the sand to solid ground must have varied with the stream’s course. Picture #7219057 (1972 picture accessed by clicking Time Comparison Box for CCRP Picture #6404) shows what they might have faced when the stream hugged the hill to the south before flowing into the ocean.
   The ScreenShot of the magnified map also shows that Alligator Rock, the curving sweep of rock jutting offshore, up the coast from Waddell Creek, hasn’t changed much in 150 years. The more expansive sand beach then, as compared to now, explains the viability of this route way back then. The Alligator Rock area was known as “Cape Horn,” by the locals at that time because of its similarities to the difficulty in passage as the same-named tip of South America. It was also the site of the experimental grading by the Ocean Shore Railroad that John Schmale shared pictures of.
   The black bar to the north of Alligator Rock marks the San Mateo / Santa Cruz boundary, as designated in 1868, five years after the map was made.
   The next ScreenShot, reaching further up the beach to the north, answers several questions I’ve had. There is an old road on the Coastways property that I had thought might have been the ingress and egress point to and from the clifftop and the beach.  At least at the time of the map, the road passed the Coastways road site, and went along the beach all the way to Ano Nuevo Creek, where it started up the hill. Given today’s conditions along this northerly stretch of the beach, this would have been a terrifying ride, with its sheer, unclimbable cliffs that are regularly pounded by waves during any sort of high tide or storm. Even though the map shows a much wider beach one hundred fifty years ago, this must have given travelers a thrill even in the best of conditions. It must have still been that way fifty years later, because during the automobile run to Santa Cruz, I sent you an article about, it mentioned a mile-and-a-half beach traverse was necessary. That fits the Ano Nuevo Creek to just south of Waddell Creek route shown on the map just perfectly.
5227
 
5248A
[Images above: Captioned and uncaptioned north of Waddell]
 
  The next ScreenShot shows just up the hill and a bit north.from where the coast road comes off the beach. That black mark is the only building shown anywhere on the Ano Nuevo portion of the map.  What this building is remains a mystery. It is not mentioned  in any of the old accounts that I’ve seen.  Yet, sitting right beside the coast road and being the only building for many miles, it should be well known. I’ll keep looking.
 
5229
   House marker greatly magnified
 
  The next ScreenShot is of Ano Nuevo Point and Ano Nuevo Island. Note the sand spits that almost connects them. I’ve read about this so many times it is kind of cool to finally see a repreentation of it. The intro photo of the General Plan shows what it looks like now, a huge change. But, the island itself has hardly changed at all. 
52315213
 
[Images above: Sand Spit / Modern shot]
 
   Lastly, I’ve attached a view of Santa Cruz harbor and environs, the other half of the map. In the magnified views it is possible to see a thriving community was already established, unlike in the empty Ano Nuevo area. Enjoy. John
5232
 

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John Vonderlin: “Coastsiders” Fight Back

Story from John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

“Coastsiders Fight Back” 

 

Hi June,

  The excerpt below, from Ano Nuevo’s General Plan, tells an interesting story of the Coastsiders’ first efforts to stop the encroachment of outside developers. Well sort of, actually, it is the story of the Quiroste Indian uprising against the Santa Cruz Mission and the religious and actual enslavement it meant for many Native Americans.

  This General Plan, easily accessed online by a websearch of “Ano Nuevo General Plan,” is a very thorough, bordering on treasure trove, compilation of facts about this gateway area of the Coastside, from pre-history to the future. Here’s the homepage below. The excerpted story is on Page 60, but is preceeded by ten pages of the most detailed account of pre-European Coastside life I’ve read. And there is so much more. Great reading. Enjoy. John

FROM THE WEBSITE: 

 The Preliminary General Plan  and Final EIR/Response to Comments are available for download below. The final general plan will be posted when it is compiled. The general plan has been divided into four plan sections and individual figures for downloading. All files are in PDF format.

 

Front Cover through Chapter 1:Introduction (1.1 MB)

 

 

  (Includes table of contents and executive summary)

Chapter 2:Existing Conditions through Chapter 3:Issues (2.4 MB)

Chapter 4:Park Plan (PDF, 1.5 MB)

Chapter 5:Environmental Analysis through Plan Contributors (2.9 MB)

 

 

General Plan Maps (Document Figures): 

Figure 1: Regional (1.3 MB)

Figure 2: Location (1.3 MB)

Figure 3: Existing Facilities (1.0 MB)

Figure 4: Existing Roads and Trails (1.8 MB)

   Roads and Trails Key (127 KB)

Figure 5: Alquist-Priolo Fault Zones

Figure 6: Watersheds(2.0 MB)

Figure 7: Coastal Zone (656 KB)

Figure 8: Vegetation Communities (2.3 MB)

Figure 9: Wildlife Habitat (5.5 MB)

Figure 10: Natural Resource Sensitivity (3.5 MB)

Figure 11: Cultural Resources (484 KB)

Figure 12: Planning Zones (1.1 MB)

Figure 13: Año Nuevo SR Key Draft Proposals (735 KB)

Figure 14: Año Nuevo SP Key Draft Proposals (477 KB)

Figure 15: Proposed Preserves (1.1 MB)

 

Quiroste Attack on Mission Santa Cruz

A little more than twenty years after greeting the Portola Expedition, the Quiroste again enter into the historical account. This time it is due to their aggressive behavior towards Mission Santa Cruz.

By 1791 members of the Quiroste were entering into the missions for conversion, either voluntarily or not. One man, an elder tribal leader named Charquin, fled Mission San Francisco de Asis’s outpost of San Pedro, near present day Pacifica just days after his reported baptism. He led a small band of renegade Quiroste in the Santa Cruz Mountains. He was eventually captured and sent to the Presidio of Santa Barbara. Despite his capture, the Quiroste continued their resistance. Spanish soldiers, sent out by the missionaries, raided the Indians camp and returned the ones they have

caught to the missions. The Quiroste quietly gathered their remaining forces and attacked Mission Santa Cruz on the evening of the 14th of December 1793. Padre Fermín Lasuén, Serra’s successor as president of the missions in Alta California, wrote of the assault: “I have found out for certain that on the night of the fourteenth of last December the pagan, Indian, and some Christian Indians, from rancherías to the northwest of that mission made an assault on the guard, wounded the corporal in the hand, and another soldier in the shoulder, and set fire to the roof of the corral for the lambs, and the old guard house. The corporal fired a few shots, and with that they withdrew without serious injury to either side.” (Lasuén [1785-1803] 1965: 299).

This was the only time one of the Franciscan missions was attacked in Northern California. The attackers are eventually caught and imprisoned. The Spanish exert their power and control of Alta California and its peoples. The Quiroste resistance was soundly defeated. Charquin died in the stockade of the Presidio in San Diego, and what was left of the once prominent Quiroste tribe was forced to work and die in the Mission system (Milliken, Randall

Time of Little Choice: The Disintegration of Tribal Culture in the San Francisco Bay Area 1769-1810. Ch. 6; Ballena Press, Menlo Park;1995)

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John Vonderlin: El Pescadero Maps

 

From John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

EP1EP2

EP3

EP4

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1945: Charles F. Humphrey Passes

 

From the Half Moon Bay Review, 1945

 

1945 Well known Citizen of Coastside Passes

 

“Charles Franklin Humphrey, well known attorney of San Francisco, on Friday, the 17th of August 1945. With his death ends a vibrant and colorful personality of old San Francisco.

 

“Life began for him when his pioneer mother held him in her arms above a Kansas river while Indians marauded the neighboring villages. His father, James C. Humphrey, established the first newspapers in Republic and Decatur Counties, Kansas.

 

“As a boy he worked as a printer’s devil on the widely quoted “Belleville Telescope” one of the first nine newspapers established, owned and edited in the state of Kansas by his father. He worked his way through college as a reporter on the “Kansas City Star,” and then the “Topeka Capitol,” and was graduated by the University of Kansas with the degree of L.L.B.

 

“After leaving college he practiced law for about a year in Portland, Oregon, under the late W.W. Cotton, brother of Judge Aylet R. Cotton of San Mateo County.

 

“In 1895 Mr. Humphrey moved to San Francisco, where, with thirty-five cents in his pocket after furnishing his office, he began his long and able career in the law. Never acknowledging defeat, all his cases were interesting to him and all the clients “innocent victims” for which he was a fiery partisan.

 

“In 1899 he married Miss Elizabeth Warren, a native of England. They lived on Washington Street where their two sons, James W. Humphrey and Jack C. Humphrey were born.

 

“About the time of the San Francisco fire, his interests took him to Europe where he was instrumental in consolidating many of the California oil properties of the Shell Oil Company.

 

“In 1919 he became interested in agricultural possibilities of San Mateo County and purchased a  large ranch which was a part of the Old Spanish Grant Punta del Ano Nuevo, near Pescadero. Here he had a beautiful home and being hospitably inclined, and a jovial host, entertained a constant stream of friends.

 

“For over fifty years Mr. Humphrey was a member of the Bohemian Club. He was a Life Member of the B.P.O.E. (?) , also a member of the Commonwealth Club, the California State Chamber of Commerce and a director of the Associated Farm-California.

 

“He was a member of the American Bar Association, State Bar of California, San Francisco State Bar Association, Phi Delta Phi Legal Fraternity, Trustee of the Kansas Pioneer Memorial Society, San Mateo County Historical Association and of E. Clampus Vitus.

 

“A 32 Mason, and a member of Knights Templar, Shrine and Past Patron of Golden Gate Chapter of Eastern Star, he was signally honored in 1944 when he was presented with the Masonic Gold Button by Excelsior Lodge No. 166, F & A M, and in the same year by Islam Temple, in recognition of his half century of membership in the Masonic Order, dating back to April 17, 1893, at Laurence Lodge F & AM No. 6….”

——————————–

From John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

  Mr. Humphrey bought the Cascade Ranch from Mr. Renssalear Steele after the Torquay fiasco. He’d mortgaged it for $60K to somebody and only sold a few lots before the 06 Quake  Mr. Humphrey  allowed him to live there until his death with a small annuity. He also bought the Green Oaks Ranch and let Renssalear’s widowed sister live there until she died in 1919. Let me reread Tess Black’s book and get this straight in my head. Enjoy. John

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June 1920: Pescadero’s Plans for the 4th of July

From the “Coastside Comet,” June 18, 1920

Pescadero to Celebrate

Plans and preparations are being completed for a big Fourth of July celebration in Pescadero this year. The festivities will be held on Monday, July 5, commencing with a musical and literary program at 10 o’clock. At noon there will be the free barbecue and and races and games will be held in the afternoon. Dancing from 1:30 to 5 o’clock, a display of fireworks in the evening and a grand ball in I.D.E.S. hall to conclude the day’s program.

Edward J. Hevey will be the president of the day and H.W. Lampkin of Redwood City has been selected as orator. The committee of arrangements consists of Eli D. Moore, M. R. Mattei, James McCormick, Walter H. Moore, Oliver A. McCormick, Antone George, Hugh McCormick, Antone T. Enos and E.A. Shaw.

The floor mangers for the afternoon and evening dances will be Walter Moore, Oliver McCormick and “Tony” George.

On the reception committee will be William A. Moore, Hugh McCormick, J.A. Moore, Frank George and A.W. Woodhams.

The committee handling the afternoon games and races will consist of J.E. Shaw, Charles Mattei, George Goularte, D.C. Adair and Arthur Teague.

——–


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John Vonderlin: 1887: Shipwreck of the Bark J.W. Seaver at Point Ano Nuevo

Story by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

 

Hi June,

This is about the shipwreck of the Bark J.W. Seaver, on the rocks of Point Ano Nuevo at 9 A.M. on April 10th, 1887.  There are several aspects of the wreck that merit note. The articles detail every name, victim or survivor, and their job on the boat, something I hadn’t seen before. And the Captain thanks and names, in print, some of the citizens who helped the survivors get ashore, also rare. It turns out we “know” these heroes too.

 

This is from the Shipwreck Data base of N.O.A.A., and describes the wreck of the J.W. Seaver,  on the rocks of Point Ano Nuevo, apparently by the Captain, Mr, Robertson.

 

    “The lee side of the deck was under water and I saw that we could not keep afloat long, so hoping to save life and property, I stood in for the beach. We struck at 0900, a strong wind was blowing and a heavy surf was rolling in, breaking over the ship immediately smashed to atoms. Nothing more could be done and I told the men that we must watch our chance and get ashore as we could on pieces of the vessel. Immediately after we struck she commenced to go to pieces, and every breaker took away some of the cargo and parts of the vessel, and soon the water in shore was a mass of floating wreckage. A party of citizens tied ropes aroung their waists and risked their lives in attempt to help the crew through the breakers.”

 

This is from the April 12th, 1887, issue of the Daily Alta.

 

“COAST WRECK

The bark J. W. Seaver, which was wrecked on the rocks at Ano Nuevo Island, Sunday morning, an account of which appeared in yesterday’s issue of the Alta, carried eight men all told when she left this port Friday, their names being: Captain Robertson;, first mate, John Brown; second mate, John Moore; cook, Ah Sing; seamen, Edward Samuelson, Sever Ericsson, Joseph Smith, Harry Linden.   John Brown, Ah Sing, Edward Samuelson were drowned.”

 

This is from the April 16th issue of the Sacramento Daily Record-Union

 

“The Wrecked Bark.

Santa Cruz, April 11th.— News reached here last evening of the wreck of the three masted bark J. W. Seaver, owned by A. Crawford & Co., 27 and 29 Market street,San Francisco. The second mate, John Brown, a sailor named Anderson (a Swede)and the Chinese cook were drowned. The Captain, R. Robertson, was brought ashore exhausted. One sailor came ashore lashed to a board. The bark was wrecked at PointNew Year, about three (sic) miles from this city.

   She was loaded with hay and salt, bound for the Colorado river, and left San Francisco Friday morning.”  (10 tons salt, 50 tons hay… salt to the desert?)

And this is from the April 16th, issue of “The Dailt Alta.” Note the two heroic Good Samaritans.

 ”A. Crawford, owner of the bark J. W. Seaver, which was wrecked on Point New Year, stated to an Alta reporter yesterday, that the value of the wreckage that may be recovered is about $700, and it will cost about half that sum to convey it to this port. Tbe officers and survivors of tbe wrecked bark desire to thank Ed. Dickerman and Osman. N. Steele, who were not only instrumental in saving several of the men, but who afterwards showed them every kindness in their distress.”

While I couldn’t find out for sure who the 109 foot long, 230 ton vessel was named after, I did locate a Massachusetts, longtime political/maritime family, the Seavers, that seemed to be the source. There is a perfect fit timewise, James W., a ship captain, lawyer, and Representative for several terms, but he spells his name, Sever, as a few other family members did..  Perhaps, he changed his name’s spelling for ancestral reasons some time in the 10 year period between when the boat was built and he died.

   Lastly I’ve attached ScreenShots of a summary of vessels and people lost over the winter storm season of 1886-87, that was in the April 16th, 1887 Daily Alta. A lot of sea widows that nasty winter. Enjoy. John

 Seaver1.Seaver2Seaver3

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Millionaire Loren Coburn’s Relatives Owned the Coburn Trolley Co.

From June Morrall

Email June (june@halfmoonbaymemories.com)

One of Loren Coburn’s brothers owned the Trolley Track Mfg Co.

 Note: Below is promotional material for Coburn Trolley Track Manufacturing Co., Holyoke, Massachusetts. Loren Coburn was visited in Pescadero by the relatives who had a financial interest in the business.

[Image below: The Coburn Trolley Track Manufacturing Co.]

trolly_2

 “Efficient management coupled with inventive genius have developed under the name of the Coburn Trolley Track Manufacturing Company, a permanent and successful business of no small magnitude.

 “This Company was organized in February, 1888, with a capitol stock of $10,000, which was some years later increased to $150,000.

 “The foundation of this business was the invention of a special form of enclosed track for sliding doors by Mr. Lemuel Coburn. The manufacturing of same began in the basement of the old Whitcomb building on the first level canal in a room about 50×30.

 “The superiority of the special form of track over other tracks used for similar purposes was soon demonstrated, and through the foresight and inventive genius of Mr. Lemuel Coburn in constantly finding new uses for their product, the Company was soon compelled to seek additional capital and also larger quarters, and in December, 1891, moved into the quarters formerly occupied by the Deane Steam Pump Company on Bigelow Street.

 “The development of the various lines here began in real earnest, and with the opening up of agencies in practically every city in the United States, together with branch offices in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, Chicago, and also in Manchester, England, the business was given such an impetus that it became necessary to obtain still larger quarters, with the ultimate result of the erection of the Company’s own plant at Williamsett, directly opposite the river from Holyoke. This plant at the present time covers something over two acres of ground and is equipped with such machinery as is necessary to take care of the constantly increasing business.

 “The Company moved into its present buildings in the fall of 1900, and with the increased facilities thus available was able still further to develop the scope and usefulness of its product, and extend the market for same to practically every civilized nation.

 “At the present time the varied lines manufactured by them are such as to create a steadily increasing business each year, and no such thing as a dull season.

 “It is an interesting fact of no small importance in illustrating the value of the original patent granted to Mr. Lemuel Coburn  that in spite of of many radical changes and improvements made in various ways to meet new conditions and also increasing competition, the same form of track has always been adhered to, although new sizes have been added from time to time, as was first made in the Company’s original quarters. It is also true that no form of track was ever so closely imitated. Now that the patents have expired, many firms in the country, England and also France, heretofore making imitations have discarded same for the Coburn form of track.

 “One of the first departures made in finding new uses for the enclosed track was its applications to rolling ladders for the purpose of reaching or storing goods on high shelving. This meant to the storekeeper in many instances, then as now, increased space and better and more rapid handling of the goods, and although originally designed for stores new uses are constantly being found for them, not only in this country but others, shipments having found their way to Cape Town, Australia and the Orient.

 “Sliding door hardware has, and probably always will, offer the greatest chance for variation. Under this heading is included all sort and kinds of doors, from a small closet door weighing a few pounds to doors weighing several tons. Also under this heading come Automatic fire resisting doors which require special and carefully constructed hardware, made to comply with the insurance laws. The Coburn Company now has an enviable reputation for quality of their output, and as an evidence of this the Mexican government has recently, through their agents, placed a large order with them for doors.

 “Conveying materials of any kind have always been to a great extent left for “BULL STRENGTH” and the “GANG” of ordinary laborers, and it was early evident that here, too, was a field for “Coburn Products.” As soon as facilities permitted, they started the manufacturing of suitable track, of the same design, for use in foundries, machine shops and other manufacturing plants, and within a short time so demonstrated the usefulness of the idea that they received a contract for equipping one of the largest foundries in Massachusetts with their “SYSTEM.” This branch of the business has unlimited possibilities along the lines of modern business development and conservation of energy wherein the necessity for the moving of raw or unfinished material occurs, and the problems presented for solution require engineering ability and long experience to determine the proper method of procedure.

 ”The organization of the Company consists of Azro A. Coburn, president [and brother of Loren Coburn of Pescadero]; Willis D. Ballard, vice president and general manager and George D. Miller , treasurer.”

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John Vonderlin: Old Ano Nuevo Sketches

Story from John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

This is the sketch of Ano Nuevo mentioned by George Davidson in the excerpt from his “Directory …” book I just sent. There are also ScreenShots of the larger map it is from, and a close-up of the Coastside’s piece of the Pacific Coast from that map. Enjoy. John

d1d2d3

 

ANO

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