Archive for October, 2008

How Bean Hollow Lagoon Got Its Name Change….New Story by John Vonderlin

[Note: John has been recovering from eye surgery, which was very successful. We all want you to "get well soon!" Here's John latest piece.]

How Bean Hollow Lagoon Got Its Name Change

Story by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

June,

I need to keep this short because of my eye, but thought you might want to know this. When I was writing about the Bean Hollow Bridge and Loren Coburn’s constructing what we now know as Lucerne Lake, you asked if I knew where the name of the lake came from. Not knowing, I posited that Loren may have wanted to add a little  pretension to his resort, the Pebble Beach Hotel. I knew he hoped the hotel, nicknamed “Coburn’s Folly,” by derisive Pescaderans, would compete with the famous Del Monte Hotel in Monterey, and I thought that by naming the lake he created after the famous and stunningly beautiful Lake Lucerne in Switzerland, he was furthering that dream.  Apparently, the reason is nowhere near as colorful.

Meg came to visit today and lent me a book she had borrowed, entitled “Place Names of San Mateo County, by Dr. Alan K. Brown.  The book had been reprinted in 1975.  by the San Mateo Historical Society, with a few corrections by Dr. Brown, from his original manuscript, finished in 1960. Here’s what he has to say:

“What used to be Bean Hollow Lagoon was made into a reservoir and renamed in 1923 by F.L. Lathrop, manager of the land company. The new name was suggested by alfalfa culture, and has been intensely disliked by Pescadero, on the grounds that it is likely to cause the old name, Bean Hollow, to be forgotten. The county’s new Bean Hollow Beach sign on the highway here has probably removed the cause for quarrel.”

Alfalfa used to be called lucerne, particularly in Great Britain, which explains Dr. Brown’s excerpt. Though I must confess I had to look up the connection.

I need to rest my new bionic eye now, but Dr. Brown’s book also has some interesting facts about Bean Hollow’s naming I’d like to return to in another posting, along with some facts I’ve discovered about Mr. Lathrop. Enjoy. John

P.S.  Here are some of Dr. Brown’s numerous publications over the past five decades, some that I’ve read, all I hope to:  A Description of Distant Roads: Original Journals of the First Expedition into California, by Juan Crespí (San Diego State University Press, 2001); Place Names of San Mateo County (San Mateo, CA: San Mateo County Historical Association, 1975); “Discovery of the Redwoods,” Forest History, 13 (1969; with F. M. Stanger); Who Discovered the Golden Gate? The Explorers’ Own Accounts (with F. M. Stanger; San Mateo, 1969); “Rivera at San Francisco: A Journal of Exploration, 1774,” California Historical Quarterly, 41 (1962): 325-41; and “Salt for the Scraping: Origins of the San Francisco Bay Salt Industry,” California Historical Quarterly 39, (1960).

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Russell Towle Tribute Weekend

RUSSELL TOWLE TRIBUTE WEEKEND
October 11-12 • Dutch Flat, California
Please join us for any or all of these events. Children are welcome.

***** SATURDAY, October 11, 2008 *****

9:00 am, Dutch Flat Community Center: TAKE A HIKE!
Honor and remember Russ with a hike to one of his favorite places.
Destinations will depend on the weather, the number of people, and
hiking ability levels. Bring lunch. We’ll return to Dutch Flat in time
for the Quesadilla Dinner.

12:00 Noon to 4:00, Dutch Flat, ongoing:
• Golden Dri* museum open, and featuring Russ’s local history
publications, with Sally Towle.
• Art show (Russ’s art and art he inspired) at the Community Center.
• NFARA (North Fork American River Alliance) exhibit and membership drive
• Story recording room — Record “Russell stories” and memories for
his family, and for posterity.
• Russell-inspired crafting, with Shellie Towle. (The “Russell Towle
Coloring Book”/Geometric model building/Make a “God’s eye” / Make a
dreamcatcher…)

4:00 to 6:00, Dutch Flat Community Center: QUESADILLA DINNER. Open to all.

6:30, Dutch Flat Community Center: MULTIMEDIA PROGRAM
Featuring Russ’s geometrical imaging work, computer animation,
music, artwork, and his fascination with the North Fork American
River Canyon. Also, short presentations by family and friends.

***** SUNDAY October 12, 2008 *****

9:00 a.m. to 11:30: VISIT RUSS’S FAMILY AT HIS HOME ON MOODY RIDGE
Come prepared to walk a bit If you are able—wear trail
shoes/clothes, and enjoy the paths and viewspots Russ has been
grooming on this 25 acres of magical canyon rim woodland for the 33
years he lived here. It is unfailingly beautiful here in October. Take
the Alta exit from I-80 (17 miles E of Colfax) and follow signs.

12:00 Noon to 4:00, Dutch Flat Community Center
SHARING CIRCLE, followed by a POTLUCK (vegetarian food please!)

Camping will be available Friday to Monday in Russell’s meadow; and a
few Dutch Flat Hotel beds will be available Friday and Saturday night.
We can also arrange beds with local friends who have spare rooms.
Questions? Ideas for the Saturday evening program? Email
rememberingrussell@mindspring.com.

Donations to assist Russell’s family may be made be made in care of
the family’s attorney. Write “For the Russell Towle Family” on your
check, and make payable to:
Gerhard Stoll, Attorney / 425 California St. #1900 / San Francisco, CA 94104

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The Sunken Cathedral in Three Acts

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A Gumboot, a Pectoral Girdle & Snotsicles….New Story by John Vonderlin

A Gumboot, a Pectoral Girdle and Snotsicles

Story/Photos by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

My last trip to Invisible Beach didn’t fail to amaze, mystify and amuse me with oddities and superlatives as usual.

The first treasure spotted was the largest and freshest Gumboot Chiton I’ve ever seen washed ashore.

This lovely brute, the largest of the numerous chiton species, measured nearly twelve inches end- to- end, close to the listed max of 13 or 14, you’ll find in books. What made it particularly special was that it still had its gills, those brown tentacle-like things arranged in curves on either side of the large central foot. I’d never seen these in such good shape before, in the hundreds of chitons I’ve seen washed ashore through the years.

In this enlarged picture of its mouth you can clearly see its radula, the mouth-part it uses to scrape its food, various algaes, off the reef.


Here’s an excerpt from “Gumboot Chiton Wikipedia” that explains the origins of this strange creature’s names. By the way, “Gumby” or should it be “Gumbo?,” is presently immersed in a sloppy mix of water and soil in a bucket, so that I can eventually remove the giant butterfly-shaped valves or plates, for artistic use, after it decomposes.

The name, “gumboot chiton,” seems to derive from a resemblance to part of a rubber Wellington boot or “gum rubber” boot. These boots were previously known as gumboots. However, support for this apparent etymology is scanty; the Giant Pacific Gumboot Chiton Homepage states “it has reminded others of the sole of a gum rubber boot”, and an Alaskan seashore field guide says it is named “from the animal’s resemblance to the rubber, or gum, boots worn by Alaska’s coastal residents.”

Neptune’s Vomitorium, had coughed up the next beach oddity, this strange piece of cartilage.

I’d seen smaller, partial versions of similar-shaped chunks previously, one still connected to the recognizable parts of a ray, so I was pretty sure I knew what it came from. After a little websearching I discovered it is called a pectoral girdle. Rays, sharks, fish, even people have them, though the fish’s and ours are composed of bones not cartilage. It provides a strong, stable foundation to anchor fins and arms onto, so they can do their vital work. My belief is this must be from a quite large ray.

There were also several unusual types of algae in the wrack that had washed up at Invisible Beach, and despite hours of research, I’m still trying to identify them.

I was, however, able to find the answer to what that strange hole was in the Sea Star photo I sent you last time. I found the Sea Star under a foot of water right next to a golf ball. There was a perfectly round hole in it, perhaps as much as a half an inch wide.


.It turns out that this hole, that I think I’ve seen before, but can’t clearly remember when, is something that all Sea Stars have. It’s called a “madreporite.” (Mother of all holes?) It’s tightly closed in Sea Stars washed up on the beach, or clinging to the rocks when the tide recedes, so it’s not often seen.

Wikipedia explains it as:  “The madreporite is an opening used to filter water into the water vascular system of echinoderms. It is visible as a small red or yellow button-like structure, looking like a small wart, on the aboral surface of the central disk of a starfish.”

On the same day, at a nearby beach, I saw several other oddities I’d like to share. There had been a mass stranding of almost fifty large Moon Jellyfish. They were in really good shape.

You can tell the two in the picture are both male by the fact that the horseshoe-shaped gonads visible through their translucent flesh are purplish. Females’ are white or yellowish. The strange coincidence of them being side by side on a spacious beach is due to the fact that Moon Jellyfish, or Aurelia aurita, as they are officially known, are unique amongst the large medusa species because they don’t capture prey with their tentacles. Instead they trap zooplankton in the mucus coating the outer surface of their bell and their oral arms. That old song lyric by Mary Wells, “I’m stuck like glue to my guy,” might be relevant in this case.

Nearby another oddity lay exposed in a sandy cliff above the normal reach of the waves. A number of iron-oxide-stained, stalactite-like features hung down from the eroded cliffside.

After an examination I believe I know what they are. They are the early stage of concretions that form around roots or twigs. While they were still buried, iron-containing materials had accreted around them. If the roots had stayed buried and calcium-rich water had percolated through the sand, I believe the cementation process that creates concretions would have happened.

Not far away, flowing over a low seaside cliff into the sand, was a another oddity that doesn’t have a name that I can be sure of. Upon seeing the photo, my brother insisted it was either a snotsicle or snottite.

He’d watched a show on spelunking recently and both snotsicle and snottite were mentioned. Unfortunately, the word snotsicle is also commonly used to denote the frozen result of a runny nose. On the other hand snottite only occurs in caves, so neither name is quite right.

A Wikipedia article, besides pictures, had this excerpt about snottite:

“Snottites are colonies of single-celled extremophilic bacteria. They hang from the walls and ceilings of caves and are similar to small stalactites, but have the consistency of ’snot’, or mucus.

“The bacteria derive their energy from chemosynthesis of volcanic sulfur compounds and warm-water solution dripping down from above. Because of this, they are highly acidic, some with the corrosive properties of battery acid.”

Yow! Where’s my teflon kleenex?

As I said in the beginning of this posting, a trip to the San Mateo coast almost always provides me with a sense of awe, mystery and amusement at what Neptune and Mother Nature have to offer. I wonder what this week will manifest? Enjoy. John

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1978: Oil in La Honda?

Rick Sullivan wrote this in 1978.

Wes Dognetti surveys the gentle coastal hills west of La Honda and gazes serenely at the Pacific below.

“I’m told that close to a million barrels have been taken from these fields since oil was discovered here (in the mid 1800s) . And there’s probably a lot more down there.”

Dognetti should know. For the past 20 years he’s worked as La Honda superintendent for a variety of firms, including the ZIA Petroleum Corp, the newest in a line of independent companies that hope enough oil remains in the overworked fields for them to cash in on the skyrocketing price of oil.

ZIA’s president, William Weaver, Jr. of Long Beach, is among a number of south state entrepreneurs traveling north to seek their fortunes in the precious black crude.

While the so-called “majors” of the petroleum industry are reviewing potentially rich deposits off the Northern California shoreline, smaller oil firms such as ZIA are taking a closer look at abandoned wells in the coastal hills of San Mateo and Santa Clara counties.

So far, ZIA likes what it sees.

The independent company, in limited partnership with Union Oil, last year successfully rejuvenated 12 “stripper wells” in the upper and lower La Honda Fields.

The company is now pumping an average of 100 barrels of crude daily.

In the next few years, ZIA hopes to have 21 additional wells in operation, pumping a total of 2,000 barrels per day.

At the current price of almost $12 a barrel, ZIA is happily staring at a potential yearly gross of $8.6 million.

Oil production in San Mateo County could indeed become big business.

Weaver got a taste of good fortune in his new enterprise earlier this month.

The 44-year-old ZIA president contacted the San Mateo County Planning Department on a recent Thursday to inquire about oil exploration permits near the South Coast.

He was advised permits would run $200 per well, but on the following Monday would increase to $2,000–the hefty hike a direct result of the property tax restrictions imposed by Proposition 13.

Weaver hastily boarded a plane on Friday morning to fly north. He issued the planning office a check for $4,200 plus another $350 in other environmental fees for 21 oil drilling applications.

Had Weaver waited one more day to make his inquiry, he would have been required to pay the county a total of $45,550 for the same number of applications.

Weaver can only hope that the almost miraculous paper savings of more than $40,000 is a signal of the financial prosperity that awaits his three-year-old enterprise.

The county has never earned the distinction of contributing mightily to the national petroleum reserve. In fact, it seems safe to assume few are aware oil is pumped from the ground of this predominantly suburban region.

But according to Weaver, a professional engineer and businessman who says he has researched the oil drilling history of Northern California, the coastal hills of San Mateo and Santa Clara counties were among the first areas of the state to be tapped for commercial oil production.

It was in the year 1865, says Weaver, that a San Francisco druggist Charles Morrell, was tipped by the rugged timbermen of the era that crude oil was actually bubbling from the ground on the grassy slopes near La Honda and Half Moon Bay and south into Santa Clara.

Weaver relates that the intrepid druggist laid claim to this land, ladled the crude from man-made sumps and marketed the liquid as illuminates for lamps.

Later, more sophisticated light, steam engines were employed to pump the crude oil.

Petroleum giants such as Exxon, Texaco and Union purchased mineral rights to the land in the mid 1950s and established more modern, gas-operated commercial pumps on land that is now part of the Cowell Ranch south of Purisima, the Amburst and Savage land, and the Peter Folger property off San Gregorio Road, about 2 1/2 miles west of La Honda.

What attracted the majors to the area, according to Weaver, was the relatively shallow depths of the deposits, and the “low gravity” content of the oil, which eased refining the crude into gasoline.

In some sections the sticky crude was found within 15 feet of ground level, but in most areas oil was hit after drilling 1,600 feet to 2,400 feet.

These depths are considered by oilmen to be extremely shallow. By comparison, most Texas wells are sunk 10,000 feet and more.

But the shallow wells, however convenient, didn’t produce what was hoped for by the majors. The wells yielded far less than newly discovered deposits in the southern states and overseas.

In the late 1950s, according to Weaver, oil was selling for about $1.85 per barrel.

“The majors just couldn’t show a reasonable profit with their La Honda wells at the price,” he notes.

Most of the large companies quit-claimed their leases and they passed uneventfully to the Neaves Petroleum Co., then to the South Western Apache Petroleum Co., then back to Neaves.

Weaver’s ZIA Corp purchased Neaves mineral rights to the scenic coastal slopes in 1975. With these rights was an agreement that that the owners of the land that contained the oil would be guaranteed a percentage of the gross production.

Twelve gas-operated iron pumps, unseen from the La Honda Road, and nestled in the hills among patches of wild thistle, operate 24 hours a day.

In what is locally referred to as the Lower La Honda Field just north of the roadway, a barb-wire fenced compound contains a cluster of storage tanks and machinery.

There water and gas is separated from the oil pumped from the ground and stored.

The gas is used to operate the pumps, water is injected back into the earth and the oil is transported from the field tanks to a large tank closer to the road.

ZIA Oil is sold to Union, which in turn sells it to the Shell Oil Refinery in Martinez.

“What we’ve done (in purchasing these leases),” comments Weaver, is to turn heretofore marginally profitable wells into ones that are quite profitable.

“One has to remember that we (oilmen) are now getting five times as much for oil than was given six or seven years ago,” adds Weaver, who reminds how the Arab oil embargo dramatically boosted the price of a barrel of crude.

Weaver further advises that the market now for crude oil is far greater in Northern California than in the south–the major transfer point for Alaskan tankers.

ZIA has attempted to keep a low profile, skirting any publicty for fear of hassles from environmentalists and vandals.

Weverr employs Dognetti–an old time oilman–schooled not in high finance, but in the muck, the ditches and the heat of the Casmalia oil fields near Vandenburg–to guard and maintain the facilities.

But Weaver claims his operation is ecologically sound, and reminds that in the long run his business can add much needed revenue to local government coffers. He must pay a mineral tax based on production.

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The Silent Procession: New Story by John Vonderlin

The Silent Procession

Story by John Vonderlin

Email John (benloudman@sbcglobal.net)

Hi June,

With my brother visiting from Oregon, I used the opportunity to come out to San Mateo’s beautiful coast and do some collecting of Marine Debris at Invisible Beach and below the Ritz Carlton a few days ago.

It had been a while since I’d been to the latter, and I wanted to clean the reef of golf balls before the big Samsung Golf Tournament that started yesterday. There were only a few more visitors then normal, but the place was a beehive of activity. Big tents raised along the hotel’s southern side, Samsung signs everywhere, huge light pole trucks waiting to be positioned, workers buzzing around everywhere on electric carts, talking earnestly on their cell phones. Things are really coming together for their moment in the sun, or at least the Golf Channel. The nearly unique-in-golf-tournament-history twenty-six minute fog delay the competitors experienced yesterday, certainly put a Northern California coastal imprint on that moment in the sun.Wearing my kayak booties I was able to splash around the rock promontory that isolates the beach below the Ritz except at low tide and had the Sunken Cathedral Beach to myself. The Sunken Cathedral’s ruins seemed a little more eroded from its cliffside grave then the last time I saw it, but still looks like it has a few more good years in it.

I took some obligatory pictures of it with my camera, trying a few different angles from those previously tried. I was hoping to luck out and capture the somber, brooding aspect of this monument to some developer’s cleverness. I also shot a little video of it with my new, cool Flip Video, which I’ll send in a subsequent email. I obviously need some more practice with it, but so do the golfers whose errant balls I began to collect as I started northward.

I ended up gathering 59 balls.

But, probably got only part of those that were there, as there was a lot of seaweed filling the holes in the reef where they often gather. I tried to locate them in their hiding places, but feeling around with my feet in the slippery mess for hidden balls seemed like a prescription for a broken ankle or a concussion. Note from the pictures I attached that the balls are social sea creatures. They love to congregate. While five in one place was the maximum this time, if I remember rightly, I found as many as 46 in one hole last year. It was of interest that of the 59 I gathered, only one was not complete and that most were fairly new, hardly smoothed by their time in the surf. This is very unlike those that are regurgitated by Neptune’s Vomitorium, 15 miles south and perhaps many months or years into their travels.

The last two pictures are of an odd congregation of marine debris I spotted south of the Sunken Cathedral as we were leaving.

On first sight I thought I was looking at Cinderella’s glass slipper, three complete golf balls and the pink core of another. When I picked up the small, round, spongy, pink thing and examined it carefully

I realized that it was the severed “head” of a personal item. While I was glad to add it to my collection of adult-themed marine debris items, it made me doubt that Cinderella had anything to do with the “glass slipper.” Or maybe Walt Disney left that part of the story out.

My trip to Invisible Beach that day produced a bonanza of oddities or superlatives I’d like to share in my next posting. Enjoy. John

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Memorial Park in Black & White

Can you see the old car parked between the giant redwoods?

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The Coburn Mystery: Chapter 52

Chapter 52

The rift between businessman Joe Levy and landowner Loren Coburn grew as wide as the Pacific Ocean to the west of the quaint village of Pescadero.

They went from building and tearing down the fence that kept people out of Pebble Beach to directly competing for passengers in the transportation business. Mr. Levy was already running stages from San Mateo to Half Moon Bay to Pescadero. In March 1892, Mr. Coburn leaped into the stage business, too. He purchased two big Mt. Hamilton coaches, with a ten-twelve passenger capacity. Three daily stages: Mon. Wed. Fri. He announced that his fares would be low, lower than that of Mr. Levy.  He called his company the “People’s Stage Line.”

Right away there were problems for Coburn’s new stage line. Why didn’t Loren expect a glitch at Half Moon Bay? That’s where the Levy Brothers had their flagship general store. What happened is that the People’s Stage Line couldn’t get out of town as fast as Joe Levy’s stagecoaches. Something about no one to water and feed the exhausted horses.

Then came the price war. In May 1892 Coburn charged $1.10 for the trip over the hill. In response, Levy dropped his prices. Feeling optimistic, Loren Coburn bought more coaches and extended the itinerary to include San Francisco, 95 cents, one way. After both sides dropped prices, they raised them again during the summer—but Loren never could overcome the delay at Half Moon Bay and eventually quit the stagecoach business.

.

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