John Vonderlin: More railroad lines were planned for the South Coast

[Note: Proposals for these little “feeder lines” went wild after completion of the transcontinental railroad (Omaha/Nebraska/Council Bluffs, Iowa to Sacramento) in 1869.  This led to over-building of iron roads and a crash in the world of railroad building,  a major factor that added to the long financial disaster called the Panic of 1873.]

And John’s tracking them down.
Story by John Vonderlin
Email John ([email protected])
Hi June,
Here are two articles about railroads from Pescadero. Neither is the one I was looking for. The first one is the same railroad I was referring to, the Bowie and Clark, planned from San Mateo to Pescadero, but it doesn’t contain the fact it was to follow Pescadero Creek for eight miles. The second is about a road to Big Basin from Pescadero that was to later be an electrified railroad. It does mention the eight miles shorter. I’ll keep looking. Enjoy. John.
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The Daily Alta
July 15, 1875

The San Francisco, San Mateo and Santa Cruz Railroad
A meeting of the Board of Directors of the San Francisco, San Mateo and Santa Cruz Railroad Company was held yesterday to review the report of their Engineer. Mr. L.H. Shortt reported that he had made a preliminary survey from Spanish Town to the Santa Cruz County line; that he had been able to get a very favorable line, both as to grade and alignment, and recommended a tunnel through the Tom Moore Hill between Pompinin (sic) Creek and Pescadero. He also reported the results of his reconnaisance of the country between Spanish Town and San Francisco, but requested time for further examination of this portion of the line. After discussion it was resolved to adopt the line as reccommended, and the Engineer was directed to proceed at once to locate the line from Spanish Town within the Santa Cruz county boundary.

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John & Angelo Discuss the mysterious “Kablooies” of 1900

To catch up, please read John Vonderlin’s post, click here

Email John ([email protected])

Angelo is Angelo Misthos. You can read his posts by clicking here

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Angelo to John

Thanks, John, for your reply and attachments.

You’re right that the big bang was not the Saddle Rock cut in view of the time.  Since the big blast was undoubtedly at a point between Palmer Gulch and near San Gregorio beach–the grading from Tunitas to Palmer Gulch seemed already to have been done–I’m making an alternative guess that since the enormous quantity of 65,000 yards of material was moved, the OS (Ocean Shore RR) might have brought down a wide section of bluff, casting it outward toward the beach and allowing a roadbed to be built on it.

The hydraulically sluiced start of a cut north of the S.G. parking lot lines up with a continuation of the ledge cut along the bluffs south of Palmer Gulch, but not yet done immediately north of S.G. beach.  My guess is the sluicing was a trial by the OS that lent itself to that specific terrain. I can’t see what other function the sluiced cut would have.

Someday, hopefully I’ll get to the San Francisco Library reference desk and check out the 1911 OS Bondholders Report to see if that’s where I learned of it. Re the 12/17/03 article connecting San Mateo and the coast, I don’t know what to make of it, especially since it indicates materials were at hand and work was starting. Maybe since a Southern Pacific crossing was mentioned this was some kind of “feeler” the “Octopus” (read Southern Pacific) put out. Interesting.  Angelo

———————–

John to Angelo

. Thanks for the info on the “sluice” channel. I hadn’t noticed that it seems too big for the limited runoff the hill would contribute. I’ll check it out soon and include parts of your letter in a future story about it after some research if it is alright?

I’ve got several Newspaper Archive articles about other railroads that were planned for the coast, up Pescadero Creek and to Big Basin, one of which might explain the 10 mile shorter route mention you made. Not one from the 1800’s mentions a tunnel between Pomponio and Pescadero. I’ll attach them to this letter and write stories about them soon. Lotta dreams for this area that never materialized.

—–

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More Mini-Interview with fisherman-writer Rob Tillitz

Mini-interview with fisherman-writer Rob Tillitz
To visit Rob Tillitz’s website, please click here
June:  Last year while working on the Princeton “book,” I met a former Coastsider who said he had been “one of the bad boys.” Were you one of the bad boys, and what did that mean?
Rob Tillitz (RT): I don’t know of any particular group, or surreptitious meaning, other than the obvious, to the term bad boys. I assume he said it in such a way that made you think otherwise. I can’t add anymore to that than what you can already figure.

June:  Did you spend a lot of time in and around the ocean?

RT: My childhood in Pescadero was centered around the creek. But as soon as we moved to Montara, to a house with an ocean view, I started prowling the rocky seashore there. Looking for abalones, eels, mussels, rock fish. We later moved to El Granada and had an ocean view there too–a harbor-entrance view. Then I started hanging out in Princeton and went fishing. From the time I first saw the Farallon Islands on a clear day from our Montara front window, I was hooked. I spent all my time either on the ocean, or talking about it, or dreaming about it. Now I write about it, moreover call my friends that still fish and listen to what the have to say. Long answer: Yes, I spent most of my life concerned with the ocean. Once it gets you, she doesn’t let go.


June: Most people think that real fishermen spend hours alone, that fishermen are a “type” representing an individuality that is rapidly disappearing. Is any of my statement true? How does it relate to you?

RT: Fishing is most certainly a lonely and reclusive profession. You have to be a person who likes solitude if you’re going to enjoy longevity in the business. And the business has always been a haven for characters and individuals. In time past, maybe as recent as the 70s-80s, it was almost lawless. We governed ourselves, and policed ourselves. It was only when the 200-mile limit came about in the late 70s, that the government began to get involved. So, yes, all of your statement is true. Because of many reasons, mainly economically based factors, very few youngsters are getting involved these days, and the old-timers are calling it a season–for the last time–one by one. But, there is still a living to be made, and always will be, thus it is not a dying profession. As long as people eat fish, there will be fishermen to catch it. And those fishermen will be of a character, you can bet on that!
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More of the mini-interview with Rob Tilliz, please click here
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Mini-Interview with Writer Rob Tillitz

Mini-Interview with Rob Tillitz (RT)

[We’re talking about the 1960s-70s]

1. You were born on the Coastside? Where?

Rob Tillitz (RT) I was born, actually, in Oakland. We moved to Pescadero when I was in the third grade. Had Mrs. Strom as my first teacher. Moved to Half Moon Bay area, Montara, in my Sophomore year.

2. Pescadero must have been very isolated then. What was it like?

RT: We were especially isolated living up in Native Sons Park, a bumpy trail, rutted and rife with chukholes, muddy about half the school year. There was a wooden car bridge that washed out every fall, and didn’t get replaced until early summer. We didn’t have a jeep on the other side like neighbors did: Meant packing groceries a mile or so up the dirt track. Looking back, I think years sometimes went by that I did not leave the Pescadero Creek watershed. No reason to. For many it was that way. Grow your vegetables, buy what you need at Williamson’s Country Store or Norm’s Market, and that was that. The Grammer school showed movies on Friday nights….old ones! There was an occasional dance for adolesents, but the big thing was Chamarita. We lived for the Chamarita’s; the parade and auction, free beef, and giggling all the way down the hill-slide. Kids still do that, I believe.

3. Did you often play at Pigeon Point?

RT: We did most of our playing in Pescadero Creek. But summers would go to the beach, or rock fishing various places between Horseshoe Rock and Pigeon Point. Times we went fishing around Pigeon Point, but getting right down underneath it was either not easy, or there was not a decent spot to fish there. I remember someone, a diver, talking about a ledge dropoff right in front of the light that is rich with abalones, but did not ever get to fish (nor play) there. Do remember hearing the fog horn some days. Though it was not a great distance, about 6 miles. Sound carries very well in the fog. Also remember finding a CB radio at the dump. It only recevied, and I hooked it up and was able to listen to the fishermen anchored at Pigeon and Ano Nuevo talking.

4. How did you first find out about Bootlegger’s Cove? Did locals say illegal booze was unloaded there during Prohibition?

It was common but whispered knowledge that many of the old-timers, mainly farmers, were able to make it through tough times because of Bootlegger’s Cove, and smuggling booze. There was one old guy, Al Adino, that everyone joked had to go dig up another coffee can when he ran out of hundred-dollar bills. Read my book…

5. What do you know of Ken Kesey?

RT: When I lived in Pescadero, Ken Kesey was up at the Cuckoo’s Nest. Did you know the place he lived was called that before he moved there? My parents looked at it before Kesey did, and that’s what the previous owners called it. But for awhile he took a green pup tent and mounted it on a wood platform, stuck a light with a long cord inside, and hoisted it high in one of the redwoods. It was eerie in the dark and ghostly trees, supernatural like a UFO or a specter.

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[Note: Remember that Ken Kesey & the Pranksters made an as- of today-unseen movie at Ano Nuevo in the 1970s. Here’s the latest update, 12/10.2008 from Kelly Grami: “The Kesey collection here at UCLA is now protected in a state-of-the-art facility.   We’ve also been fortunate to secure a grant to help preserve some of the material.  This endeavor is currently in the planning stage and we expect it to be a long-term project due to the scope and condition of the collection.”]

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“Go West, young man”: Story by John Vonderlin

[Note:  Colonel Albert S. Evans, the author of A La California (1872), was a close friend of  New York Herald publisher Horace Greeley, famous for his “Go West, young man” declaration.  What was Colonel Evans doing, exploring California, to the north and south? Was A La California a kind of 19th century “Guide to the Golden State?” –June]

Story/Photos by John Vonderlin

Email John ([email protected])

Hi June,

I mentioned that the sand bar blocking Pescadero Creek’s flow into the ocean was recently breached in my posting about our investigation of the alleged proposed loop route of the Ocean Shore Railroad. I was amused to learn yesterday that a couple, apparently hoping to watch the event unfold, had been stranded on a rock at the creek’s mouth, when the rapidity of the process once it began caught them by surprise. An expensive and embarrassing helicopter rescue was effected, with no loss of life.

The following story, extracted from “A La California,” an 1873 book by Albert S. Evans, deals perhaps with those same rocks, but is not as bloodlesss for all concerned. There are enough politically incorrect aspects in this story to offend a great number of people, but I would urge you to judge the author as a man of his times, not today. As a former fisherman, I can’t help but wish I could have experienced those times and their amazing abundance, even while I know the careless, even callous, behavior of sportsmen of the time is what helped produce today’s degraded situation.
*****
“Pescadero” is the Spanish for “fishery,” and the name is indicative. The creeks that come down from the mountains all along this coast swarm with the spotted trout of California, and afford fine sport in the early part of the season. In places along their banks, the honeysuckle bushes and other shrubs and vines form a chaparral that you must wade through for miles to whip the stream; but one hundred, two hundred, even three hundred trout are often basketed in a single day’s fishing by one individual. It does not rain here from April to the last day of November or December; but as the days grow shorter, and the sun’s rays less powerful, the evaporation that causes the streams to dwindle to mere strings of detached ponds decreases, and all over the State, especially in the Coast Range, the streams begin to rise. Thompson, an hospitable landlord, took me down to the mouth of the Pescadero for a little sport. We sent a Mexican after worms for bait. the Mexican sent a negro, and we sent a Chinaman after the negro, and got them all back at last.

The row down the creek was short. We saw hundreds of mallards and teals, which we could not shoot for the law forbids it–very properly–until the fifteenth of the month, and large flocks of long-billed curlew and other birds, such as crows, buzzards, gulls, etc. etc., that we did not want to kill. There is a bar at the mouth of the creek and we chained our boat to a high rock inside it and walked down to the ocean. The shores were lined with drift, great trunks of pine and redwood trees, timbers of wrecked ships, etc., etc., and the scene was wildly romantic. We passed the festering carcasses of half a dozen great sea -lions, which had been killed by a fishing party with Henry rifles some weeks before. The fish come in the creek with the tide, and bite best before the tides commences. If the sea lions who cover the rocks just outside, follow them in the creek, the fish all run out–and there is no more sport that day. So the fisherman shoot some of the sea-lions and the rest leave. Before we reached the mouth we saw two wolves on the opposite shore near the breakers playing like dogs. One ran off when he saw us and the other raised his nose and voice, and treated us to the most vivid illustration imaginable of:

“The lone wolf’s howl on the Onalaska shore,” and then followed his companion. As we rounded the bluffs we saw some rocks covered with sea-lions. It was low tide and we could run out to within fifty yards of them. I had a large-sized Smith and Wesson, a capital weapon for such use. I sent a bullet into the side of a big fellow who was lying high up and presented a good mark. The ball struck him with a dull thud, and as he rolled into the waves the whole herd went splashing after him. Half a dozen of them swam down in a line twenty or thirty yards of us, and looked at us with their great lustrous brown eyes, whether with anger or sorrow we could not tell, until I hit one on the head, and as the bullet glanced off, he disappeared with a grunt and a porpoise-like dive. Thompson took the pistol, and when one rose again he fired and hit it squarely in the mouth. He shook his head from side to side, as if blind with pain, then went down, leaving great dark spots in the water. They all started then off southward, and I was not sorry. Inveterate sportsman that I have been from my youth up, I cannot get over the feeling that killing defenseless creatures like these, and allowing their bodies to rot on the beach, is something akin to murder.

“The rocks we stood on, and which are covered at high tide, were incrusted with mussels of immense size. Some of them measure twelve inches in length, and Thompson tells me he has seen them fifteen inches long. They are fat and luscious, and some epicures come down to the coast every season to indulge in clam-bakes and mussel-roasts; but this species of shell-fish is so common, and consequently cheap, that not one in ten of the people of the State of California have eaten them. In holes in the rocks, filled with pure sea-water, we saw curious things like sunflowers, with bright green petals. These we could not detach from the rocks, and at one touch they curled up into a slippery ball with all the petals inside.

“We went back to our boat as the tide came booming in, and prepared to fish for salmon-trout as they are called; really they are yearling and two year old salmon. They will bite at a worm, spoon, or fly, but best at worms. I had hardly put in my hook when a noble fellow made the line fairly hiss through the water for a few minutes. Then we drew him in, panting and exhausted with his struggles, alongside the rocks, and then with a landing net got him in the boat. He was twenty inches in length and the handsomest fish I’ve ever caught. Eight and ten pounders are common, and they are the most delicious fish for frying and broiling which ever swam the sea. Great crabs came in with the tide and we dipped several of them out with our net. In two hours we corralled fourteen of the salmon-trout, losing several more because of broken hooks, and then, the slack-water coming on, and the fish ceasing to bite with avidity, hoisted sail and went gliding swiftly upstream to the hotel. It was, all in all, the best morning’s sport I’ve ever enjoyed in my life. and I have shot and fished from the Red River in the north to the Rio Grande, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific.”

I’ve attached before and after stream breach photos of the creek’s mouth and the lagoon behind the bridge. I believe the rock shown at the mouth of the stream in the after pictures is the one the couple was standing on.

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Check that same rock, just barely sticking above the sand, in the before photo. It must have been a harrowing time for the couple until the helicopter arrived.

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A cheap and instructive lesson for others would are incautious in their desire to observe the power of Nature up close. Enjoy. John

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The Ocean Shore did not always take the most direct route…

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Angelo Misthos to John Vonderlin:

Hi, John. Thanks for your interesting article and the introduction to a new source (UCR/CBSR). Haven’t yet looked up the clip about the 16,000 #s of explosives set off north of San Gregorio, but wonder if this could be “the some nine tons of black powder” set off to create Saddle Cut, just south of Devil’s Slide described in THE LAST WHISTLE, bottom of page 39 (12/74 printing), Chapter 4, “Reaches the Beaches.”

a6d9a2c008a0ab126f083010_aa240_l-1

Re: the possible less- than- direct route for the Pescadero area, I must admit I’m skeptical as (I may have indicated this previously). On one of my 1939 trips, I found what looked like a pilot bore at the coastal cliff north of the dune area, lining up with its portal, and leading south into the dunes. It was definitely a grade before it was lost in the dunes.

Granted, the Ocean Shore did not always take the most direct route  (lack of finances, I’m sure) as can be seen by the route chosen around  Rockaway Point , just for one example.  Angelo Misthos

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Hi Angelo,

…Meg and I are going to try to find out whether there is the remnant of graded roadbed that  should be there if it was anything more then a “paper route.”   I was pretty skeptical at first, but now I’m thinking it might have been so, based on the planned trestle’s length, the problems that might have been caused by the flooded lagoon that results from the sand bar, etc. I’ll have a posting soon incorporating that, along with an 1873 story of sea lion hunting at the mouth of Pescadero Creek and the huge park planned in the 1960’s for that part of the marsh. Enjoy. John

Email John Vonderlin ([email protected])

——————-

Hello, again John.  If you should contact  Ms. P—-  again, ask if she recalls whether her Dad had said the Hwy. crew found the Pescadero tunnel, then used it for storage, and what year  he was there.  I can’t recall whether I’d found it using the old highway (further inland–see inset map next to Pescadero pictures), 1939 was a long time ago.  The bore  was open then, but I only had nerve enough to walk in a short way.  On a much later trip I found the entrance boarded up. Re CCPR image 6216 titled Trestle Gap, this is the site of the Palmer Gulch trestle I walked across.  If you enlarge the picture you can see trestle timbers clinging to the gulch and down below.  The enlarged 7928080 image (1979) shows more trestle wreckage.  Re the San Gregorio beach area,  see 6224.  If you look west of the north edge of the parking lot you’ll see what is an elongated bowl shaped hollow, foreshortened by the angle of the picture,  which was done by the OS using hydraulic sluicing as they used to use in the gold-mining days. 1979 image  7928086 may show it better (the dark area); it’s still clearly visible (I believe) driving headed North. It  would have hooked up with grading to be done at the bluffs immediately north. You can see some remnants of grading south of Tunitas and somehat beyond Palmer Gulch, but apparently grading had not yet reached the sluiced out section. I don’t recall where I read about the sluiced out hollow; don’t find it in the Wagner book.  May have been in the Bondholders Report of Ocean Shore Railway to Bondholders (1911, when the OS was reorganized). The S.F. Main Library still has a  copy in the reference section; I looked at it more than once when my interest in the OS was at its greatest and I was looking forward to its revival.  Angelo

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“The Fisherman” Chapter 1 of Rob Tillitz’s Long-Awaited Real-Life Thriller

“Bootlegger’s Cove” a “Real-Life thriller” by Rob Tillitz

To visit, Rob Tillitz’s website, please click here

THE FISHERMAN

Chapter I

May 1, 1980.

**

26 MILES OFF the coast of San Francisco. 12 years earlier.

**

“NET! COME HERE and get the f—— net ready.”

Gar, the fishboat captain was energized. The diesel engine pounded slowly at trolling speed. The yell was to the other man on the boat, Jeff.

Gar was hunched over the stern rail about as far as one could go outside of the trolling pit without falling into the ocean. It was a glorious spring day, the ocean was flat and that cloudy-green color that salmon love. Seabirds chattered and shrieked at one another, and the smell of coffee and bacon drifted out of the wheelhouse. It was sixty-one degrees in the early morning air.

The gurdy was still winding up as Gar reached over, unsnapping linesnaps from the trolling wire then straightening to coil the monofilament leaders into the leader box. He carefully inspected the split-tailed herring baits, changing the bad ones. He had watched the fish hit and seen the porcelain insulator, out of the corner of one eye, on the first big jump. It was certainly a splitter, and likely a giant one. Gar’s experienced eye guessed the unseen fish to be over thirty pounds as it struggled on the hundred-pound-test leader.

Gar yelled, “hurry up” just as Jeff burst out on deck, excited when he saw the fish running in different directions.

Jeff ran back to the stern and jumped into the pit while reaching for the net in the same notion. He laid the hoop net across the stern rail, with the scoop end hanging out over the water.

“Are we in ‘em, Garaloney?” Jeff rippled with energy. Gar had been given the handle “Garaloney” some years earlier, by his skipper at the time; it was because of his expertise at abalone diving.

“You know it, Jeffer.” Then, to the uncaught fish: “Pump, you mother-f—–! Pump your heart out,” he hollered at the trolling wire that was being wrenched hard.

Now bent all the way over the stern rail again, Gar had the auspicious linesnap, which was jerking madly, in sight. But he did not want to bring it up too high while the fish was thrashing its head from side to side. Not yet. He would not take a chance of losing this beauty.

“Are there any boats coming on your side?” Gar’s stomach was flooded with bile, as if a swarm of butterflies were circling inside. He took a moment for caution, knowing the Chinook would require his full attention for the next ten minutes, which was plenty of time for another boat in the small fleet to get close enough to lock outriggers with them.

“Clear into the middle of next week,” Jeff sang out in his exhilaration. There was nothing like a hundred-dollar fish to spike the adrenaline.

**

IT WAS OPENING morning, and they had come out of the anchorage at the Southeast Farallon Island at daylight, snooping their way down toward the rest of the Half Moon Bay, California, boats, looking for a spot to fish. They set their gear into the water about nine miles south of the Farallon anchorage at Pa’s Canyon, named after Carl Burlesque. Carl, or Pa, had caught tons upon tons of rock cod dragging Old Pa Rock, located deep, and on one side of the canyon. But there were more than rock cod here. There were salmon, and it was opening day of the season. Gar and his crewman  Jeff were trailing their gear across this canyon head in near-perfect salmon fishing conditions.

There were spring murres squabbling raucously all around the boat. The Murre is a streamlined bird, gregarious and social, noted for agile swimming ability, and their presence on the surface of the ocean is usually a sign of fish. Baitfish are driven to the surface by feeding salmon from below. And the murres feed  on them when they come up to escape from the salmon. So fishermen watch for these birds.

The whiteness of the famous Pete Seeger song’s, “Little Boxes on the Hillside” at Daly City, and on up into the Sunset District of San Francisco, were just visible from 22 miles off Pedro Point. Perfect opening-weather presented itself with just an occasional lazy swell rolling through. Clear blue sky with some wispy white clouds, and a hardly noticeable six to eight mile per hour breeze, just sufficient to keep the kelp flies at bay.

Beyond the normal smells of an older wooden boat—deck caulk, fir, bilge water, and always diesel—the ocean offered its salty aroma. It smelled this morning as shrimp taste. Just exactly like shrimp taste, Gar observed, while scrutinizing the salmon’s latest run, along with the smells of different paints lingering in the air. The topside smelled of lacquer, while the bottom paint reminded him of early school days. It was a smell like crayons or clay, with an underlying reek of tar.

**

GAR HELD THE kill cord high and over the back of his hand, pinching the line tight to his palm with his right thumb.  The linesnap was just six or eight feet away. The fish had mellowed, swimming just behind and slightly away from the boat. The game now was to ease the fish closer, inch by inch.

Gar pulled long and slow on the line, surfacing the silvery prize sufficiently to inspect both its size as well as the position of the hook. The fish was a monster for this time of year. Normally the fish are smaller in the spring, but this one was by no means small.

“I’m bettin’ thirty eight,” Gar guessed, meaning what the fish would weigh at the dock, which would be after it was dressed, because salmon must be cleaned and gilled as soon after being caught as possible.

“I’m taking overs,” Jeff countered.

“He’s hooked good,” Gar said, breathing out.

A suck in, then exhaling, “Come on, baby. Come to papa.”

Another in and out: “Atta boy, don’t be shy, just get….” Now holding his breath, “Oh, no, don’t do that!” The fish was starting to sit on its tail while head thrashing again. The thing fought with an admirable frenzy, tearing up the water and becoming a blur of manic activity. Water splashed into the air for thirty feet around. But it couldn’t last. No fish could sustain such mortal activity.

When the fish was again within reach, Jeff had the net ready. The fish’s head was within swinging range, accordingly Gar grabbed his gaff, but instead of gaffing it Gar turned the gaff’s hook out away from the fish and clubbed the giant perfectly on the soft spot between and above the eyes, knocking the beast into fish incoherency.

“Good Morning!” he breathed reverently.

All over but the hallelujahs now, Gar let the fish drop back in the current to just astern of their positions while Jeff simultaneously slipped the dip net behind the fish. Jeff levered the net up over the rail of the stern. It took Gar’s help, grabbing low on the handle, then on the far side of the net, to lift the fish over the rail. They flopped it onto the deck where another couple of whacks to the noodle were delivered to insure its capture.

Elated, the two fishermen let go with a jubilant, beginning-of-the-season-scream, then turned back to their work. The fish would go thirty-eight pounds, easy.

Gar increased the speed of the boat a little bit, kicked off the autopilot, and spun the wheel thirty degrees for a slow turn. He did this almost automatically, and spoke to Jeff.

“I’ll turn your way so you can run your bow line. I better run us back up through that spot before we get too far away. We’re in ‘em. I can feel it. I love this canyon. It never lets me down. And we found it all by our lonesomes.” Gar loved finding his own fish. It was an integral element of his independent nature.

Jeff was busy on his side, and then he called for the net. Gar already running his bow line back out, paused the gurdy for fifteen seconds to net Jeff’s fish then set the net back in its position hanging slightly out over the stern. Jeff’s fish was a keeper, but would only go about eight pounds dressed. It was a nice medium, and he told Jeff that. Continue reading

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Read the Prologue to “Bootlegger’s Cove” NEW True-Life Thriller by Rob Tillitz


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Bootlegger’s Cove, a True-Life Thriller by fisherman/writer Rob Tillitz

To visit Rob Tillitz’s website, please click here

PROLOGUE

SPRING, 1992.

**

KARACHI, PAKISTAN

**

“SO YOUR NAVY will bring the hash out to my boat?” Bubba asked Mohammed Shamir Jang, somewhat incredulously. He’d heard that the Pakistani Navy participated in the loading of hashish, but was nonetheless surprised when Mohammed told him that this was how it would go.

“Yes, Mr. Lee. We are a poor nation. The beautiful green and white uniforms you see our sailors wear cost more than we pay them for their first year of wages. So we allow them to supplement their incomes. Actually, we encourage it. It will cost one thousand U.S. dollars for them to bring the load out to your boat. They will also stand by your ship until your skipper is safely underway; an added bonus in an area infamous for pirates.”

The Mr. Lee he referred to was actually Lee Rothman, more commonly known as Bubba. Bubba was buying a load of hashish for shipment to the United States. He had other associates, stateside, who would have the load picked up when it reached the other end. His long-time friend and confederate, Jay, would take care of all that. That wasn’t his job. His job was to send the drugs safely on their way from the port of Karachi. Bubba’s ocean-going tug was anchored in Sonmiani Bay, but would motor nearer to the area of the Karachi wharfs when it was time to load up. The Aussie skipper of the Strident was a punctilious man, anxious to get underway.

“Very good, my old friend, I will give Captain Alistair the fee and instruct him to give it to the Captain of your Navy boat as soon as the cargo is transferred. Or half, then half, if that is preferred,” Bubba said.

“Half, then half, sounds too fair for anyone to argue.” Mohammed smiled.

They agreed on the timing, made further arrangements as to how and when Bubba would pay Mohammed for the load, shook hands, and parted feeling confident each had made a clean deal. Bubba, however, was already having thoughts of the next part of this endeavor—moving the hashish halfway across the world. He’d let Jay worry about getting it into the United States. That was something else entirely. The important part was that this was Operation Rehash, and it was time to roll. The fix was in. And he was now working both sides of the street.

**

THE STRIDENT  HAD been underway for a week when it approached the Strait of Malacca between Sumatra and Malaysia. As they left the Indian Ocean, passing through the Great Channel into the Andaman Sea, Captain Alistair had all hands armed and ready on deck. The Malacca Strait is 400 miles long and fraught with pirates. At the speed they were making, it would take about twenty hours to clear the strait. Half of that time would be in the dark.

Al had timed it so that they would traverse the first half of this dangerous passage at night. He felt his odds were better at night, where the Strait was not so narrow. That way, as they approached the narrow southwest end of the Strait, he would have daylight on his side. Al hollered at his first mate, a burly Australian named Chapman.

“Keep a sharp eye. I can see small blips on the radar. They show just a mile or so ahead. It’s likely to be fishing boats, but keep sharp.”

“Aye, aye, Cap’n.”

As time passed, tension seeped further into the already jittery nervous systems of the crew. All of these men knew how dangerous these waters were. They’d been on edge preceding this leg of their journey. Once they hit the Great Channel entrance to the pirate zone, though, the danger was magnified exponentially. They all knew this. There was no coast guard to turn to when you were hauling drugs.

“Cap’n,” Chapman spoke loud and clear, so everyone could hear him. “I see one boat now. It’s a fishing boat. I can see the guys working nets in the deck lights.”

“Okay, Chap. Rest easier, but don’t get too comfortable. We’ve got a long night ahead of us.”

**

THE STRIDENT MADE it completely through the Malacca Strait without incident. It was only after they’d left the Singapore Strait, setting a course that would thread them through the Kepulaua Islands, that the trouble they had so assiduously avoided finally found them. All hands were focused ahead on the South China Sea, and the Luzon Strait beyond that, and no one noticed the pirates speeding up on their stern. Indeed, the pirates must have known this would be so. The small craft of the pirates blended in with other commercial vessels in the dark of night, and were upon the tug before anyone was the wiser. The smugglers were too busy watching the busy hand of the magician, and did not notice the deft hand.

It wasn’t until a grappling hook clinked over the stern rail that someone noticed them. And by then it was almost too late. The Filipino crew were all bedded down except their foreman, Fernando, who was the only one able to communicate with the two white men. It was Fernando who spotted the three-pronged hook as it took its bite into the inside of the stern bulwark.

“We got ‘um some company!” Fernando got very excited, very quickly.

This was the reason Alistair was picked for this job. He was fast and aggressive. His large, athletic frame moved like a panther. He grabbed the AK-47 and was out the back door of the wheelhouse as the first pirate came over the stern.

“Tat, tat, tat, tat!” The pirate was blasted backwards and into the tug’s foaming wake. This man’s appearance was a ruse and a diversion, and it almost worked. For two other pirates had come up over the bow bulwark as Alistair and Chapman were concentrating on the stern. The Malaysians were on Alistair’s back with knives before he was aware they had boarded. Fernando was on them in an instant. His flashing knives, Chinese butterfly knives, slashed and pierced them before they could do any damage to Alistair. A pristine deck was instantly awash with blood. Chapman wasted no time tossing the corpses of the intruders over the rail.

**

As suddenly as it had begun, it was over. By the time the Filipino crew boiled up from the lower decks and the fo’c’sle and stood bristling with arms, there was nothing under the deck lights except a smeared pool of blood and the steady low throbbing of the engines.

The pirates had come with only two boats, and two men per boat. The boat in the stern could be seen motoring away with a single, frantic man handling the outboard tiller. The other boat was adrift.

“Better walk the rails with flashlights and AK’s,” Alistair instructed.

“Aye, eye, eye, Captain,” Fernando said, and the others started to laugh. Fernando’s English wasn’t as good as it could have been.

**

BUT ALL OF this was in the future. All of this was yet to come. The timelessness of life on the sea eventually made every sailor upon it wonder about the difference between what had already happened and what was yet to come. But this was yet to come.

—————————

NEXT: Chapter One, The Fisherman

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Bootlegger Cove: Linda Iacono & John Vonderlin don their Smuggler’s Caps

4

Hi John,

I visited with my dad on Thanksgiving and got some more details about Bootleggers Cove and other interesting stories from WWII that I will share at another time.

The cave was pretty big and deep, enough for a grown man to carry and store crates in.  The man Benzanni (not sure of
the spelling) that used the cave boarded  with my dad’s family at the White House Ranch and worked for the Humphreys. Benzanni was big and gruff and apparently lost all his money in the depression.  Money made by bootlegging, I suppose.

The cave collapsed before the 1960’s because my brother said there was no cave when he went to the cove.  My dad says the coastline has changed so much over the years that it probably would not look like he remembered it.  I didn’t show him the pictures you sent, but I will next chance I get.

I thank you for taking the time with me on this.  My dad has really enjoyed talking about his childhood.  He remembers more all the time.

His family moved to Pescadero in the early 1930’sm and his step mom’s family, the McCrearys, lived there at least since the early 1900’s.  I don’t know much about that just yet.

Thanks,
Linda

7

Hi Linda,
Thank you for sharing your Dad’s past. I’d love to hear any stories he might remember. The coastal defenses during W.W. II are something I’m especially interested in. Or the remnants of the Ocean Shore Railroad. Or Pescadero in the 1940s? Or Gazos in the 70s?

We went out to Franklin Point and Smuggler’s Cove recently to take some photos from a smuggler’s point of view.  We used to call the cove, Abalone Cove. Reason why: The first time we went there it was a hazardous climb down to the beach, and we noted that a lot of beachcombers must have been turned back because there were so many pretty, collectible abalone shells lying about.

We were actually drawn to this spectacular stretch of beach because we were searching for buoys. Isolated, hard to access coves, the kind smugglers might have favored, are also the best places to find errant buoys. Remembering the trip as I email you, I can visualize the weak light and our route out of the cove.

Does your Dad recall how the cove was accessed? Or more importantly, how was smuggled stuff pulled out of the cove?

I’m especially curious, because, having made the hazardous climb down the cliff, and not wanting to retrace our path carrying our treasures, we decided to leave by a different exit: the intimate canyon that breaks the cove’s cliffs at its southeast curve.

Initially, there’s a small animal trail, but that quickly fades away as the brush grows heavier, concealing veins of dreaded poison oak. My brilliant idea of using the shortcut turned into a bona fide nightmare as we shoved through the poison stuff for a hundred yards, holding our buoys high, all the while trying to shield our bare skin from making contact with the painful rash-giving plant.

Say it was the 1920s or 30s, I still think if you were lugging crates of hooch, this would have been the most likely trail out. You know, there might even be an old rotting crate,  holding bottles of  really well-aged booze, that was hidden in the brush, forgotten, and waiting to be re-discovered.

A couple of the pictures I’ve attached show the cove from Franklin Point. The “trail” we took out of the cove is just above the logs on the beach. I’ll attach a few other pictures of the cove’s dangerous mouth that the smuggler’s boat would have had to pass through. But, not on a day like the pictures show, unless they were crazy.

Thanks again for sharing. And for giving us another reason to visit what Meg calls “the most ruggedly beautiful place along this coast.” She might be right. Enjoy. John

Email John ([email protected])

Photos by John Vonderlin

5

Hi John,

Apparently the beach at Bootleggers Cove was much different in the 30’s and 40’s.  The beach was sandy and large enough for family cookouts.

The cave was pretty much right in the center of the cove, with the beach on one side and cliffs on the other.  It was hard for my dad to describe to me how they got to the cove since I haven’t been able to show him the pictures.  Unfortunately he’s in the hospital awaiting hip surgery so we are only able to have short conversations at a time.

I did ask him what he remembers of the railroad, and it’s not much.  Just that they started building the lines and when they stopped, people in the area would take apart the trestles for the wood.  He went to the trestle area at San Gregorio Creek with Pat Bell at one point, and they were surprised when they climbed down to the beach to see that it was being used by nudists.

As for WWII, there was a Coast Guard Shack on White House Creek beach where they kept a dog that my dad remembers bringing food to.  Also along Rossi Road there was an Army Camp.  The ranchers and farmers in the area were called to service.  My dad’s dad used to go to Cascade Ranch once a week and take his turn at watching for Japanese planes.

Along Pescadero Creek Road, to the right after leaving the highway, was an area that was owned or leased by Japanese but they were sent away, my dad said, to somewhere in the desert.  Anyway, after they left, they found radios apparently used to contact Japanese ships or planes.  Maybe this was written about in the newspaper and can be confirmed.

Hope you find some of this as interesting as it has been for me,

Linda

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Who is this “madman” Rob Tillitz?

To find out, please click here

robalone_with_albacore

Rob says he has written the South Coastside book everybody has been waiting for! And he’s going to deliver.

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